Website: https://bodegasponce.es/
Manchuela is a relatively obscure Spanish wine region located inland from Valencia, renowned for its Bobal grape variety. This grape is notable for its thick skins and robust character, while also maintaining good acidity despite the warm, dry conditions. The vines are cultivated as bush vines without any irrigation, and they thrive at an altitude of 700 meters.
Juan Antonio Ponce (pronounced ‘pon-thay’) established his winery in 2005 at the young age of 23, after gaining valuable experience under the mentorship of Telmo Rodriguez. He employs biodynamic practices in the vineyard, and in the winery, he adheres to a natural winemaking philosophy, utilizing minimal levels of sulfur dioxide. His approach is characterized by a strong preference for manual methods over mechanization.
The winemaking journey starts with a hand harvest. The grape clusters are then cooled to 8 °C and undergo whole-bunch fermentation, including the stems, in a method referred to as ‘remango’, reminiscent of traditional practices in Rioja. The grape bunches are gently foot-trodden in small wooden vats with capacities ranging from 1500 to 4000 kg. Following a few days of foot treading, the juice is moved to barrels to continue the alcoholic fermentation and undergo malolactic fermentation. This gentle and relatively brief extraction process allows the must to ferment alongside the gross lees in the barrel.
The wines are generally bottled after spending 7 months in the barrel, without undergoing any filtration or fining. The UK representative is Indigo Wine (www.indigowine.com).
Ponce Selección Albilla 2022 Manchuela, Spain
This wine originates from two small vineyards, one characterized by granite soils and the other by river stones and sand. It is fermented and matured in a combination of foudres and barrels. The flavor profile is stony and linear, featuring bright citrus fruits, some pithy elements, and a lively, fine lemony edge. Truly pure. 93/100
Ponce Depaula 2022 Manchuela, Spain
Crafted from Monastrell grapes sourced from a single vineyard with limestone soils and matured in a large vat, this wine is incredibly fresh and pure, showcasing red fruits with a touch of grip. It is highly expressive and refined, boasting excellent balance. 93/100
Ponce Buena Pinta 2022 Manchuela, Spain
This is a varietal wine made from Moravia Agria. Sourced from a prephylloxera vineyard with sandy soils, it undergoes carbonic maceration in 5000-liter foudres. The aromatic profile includes a smoky, mineral nose, leading to a palate that is bright and expressive, featuring high acidity. The texture is fine-grained, with a pleasant grip accompanying the red fruits. 94/100
Ponce Pino 2022 Manchuela, Spain
This wine is crafted from Bobal grapes sourced from calcareous soils, making it ideal for aging. It exhibits a supple texture complemented by vibrant red fruit flavors and a hint of redcurrant brightness. The palate reveals elegance with a well-defined structure, subtle spicy undertones, and a refreshing line of acidity. Rated 94/100.
Ponce La Estrecha 2022 Manchuela, Spain
This wine primarily showcases Bobal, originating from a single vineyard where the grapes are co-fermented in large 5000-litre foudres. It presents an expressive character tinged with stony mineral notes and delightful red cherry and redcurrant fruit. The flavor profile is fruity, refined, and beautifully balanced. Rated 94/100.
Ponce 2022 Manchuela, Spain
This blend consists of 80% Bobal and 20% Moravia Agria, hailing from a single vineyard characterized by river stone, sand, and clay soils. The wine is refreshingly vibrant, showcasing flavors of redcurrant, red cherry, and plum, intertwined with spices and dried herbs, plus a subtle hint of mint. Its fine chalky texture contributes to a harmonious balance. Rated 94/100.
Older notes:
Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce Clos Lojen Bobal 2020 Manchuela, Spain
13% alcohol. Sourced from six parcels of ancient vine Bobal situated at 800 meters above sea level, this wine presents a stunning aromatic profile featuring sweet cherries and strawberries, alongside notes of ginger, pepper, and a hint of dried herbs. The palate delivers a spicy and vibrant experience, enhanced by a sweet, silky texture of cherry and berry flavors. It’s highly enjoyable yet offers sufficient intrigue. Fresh and easy to drink, with beautifully supple fruit, this wine embodies a distinctly ‘new Spain’ style. 91/100
Ponce La Xara Garnacha 2021 Manchuela, Spain
12.5% alcohol. Made with whole bunches, Juan Antonio expresses a preference for fresh, elegant Grenache with lower alcohol content. This wine features subtle green nuances, and is both supple and refined, highlighted by fresh, delicate red fruits. It embodies a silky, graceful, light, and expressive character. 94/100
Ponce Depaula 2020 Manchuela, Spain
Made from whole bunches harvested from a 3.2-hectare vineyard in Jumilla, this wine is fine and textured, showcasing lovely spice and pepper notes along with some dried herbs. On the palate, it reveals a delicate spiciness and remarkable focus, culminating in a refined and peppery finish. 94/100
Ponce Ponce 2019 Manchuela, Spain
Comprising 80% Bobal blended with other local varieties, this co-fermented wine is exceptionally elegant, presenting a refined wet stone character layered over red fruits. It features a fine-grained structure with hints of dried herbs, making for an exquisite experience. 94/100
Even older notes:
Bodegas Ponce Buena Pinta 2010 Manchuela, Spain
This delightful wine from the esteemed Bodegas Ponce showcases a light and natural interpretation of Garnacha, elegantly combined with the local Moravia Agria grape. It offers an inviting bouquet of bright cherry notes, complemented by a hint of savory richness. The structure is peppery and grippy, contributing to its remarkable freshness and drinkability while retaining a certain seriousness and structure. It’s precisely the kind of wine I find myself craving. 91/100
Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce ‘Clos Lojen’ 2009 DO Manchuela, Spain
This wine has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It opens with an enticing nose rich in sweet and ripe aromas, featuring warm plummy dark cherry and blackberry, along with a whisper of baked cherry pie. The palate is lush and sweet, yet it possesses a distinct savory structure. It is dense and mouthfilling, exhibiting a spicy profile balanced with some drying tannins. It is youthful and vibrant, with a pleasing savory quality. 91/100
Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce ‘La Casilla Estrecha’ 2009 DO Manchuela, Spain
This wine carries an alcohol content of 14.5%. The term ‘Estrecha’ refers to the narrow spacing of the vines, which are situated on calcareous clay and are about 75 years old. The resulting wine is concentrated and dense, offering a tight, sweet nose of blackberry and blackcurrant, alongside some savory mineral hints. The palate presents a sweet fruit profile, bolstered by a firm, spicy structure and fresh mineral notes. It’s a densely layered wine, beautifully balancing sweet fruitiness with a firmly tannic backbone. 92/100
Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce ‘Pino’ 2009 DO Manchuela, Spain
With an alcohol content of 14%, this wine is sourced from mineral-rich soils located in a slightly cooler vineyard featuring 30-year-old vines. Its deep color showcases a youthful purplish hue, presenting a fresh aroma of sweet, dark cherries and blackberries complemented by subtle spicy notes. On the palate, it is lively and invigorating, displaying lovely acidity along with vibrant dark cherry and plum flavors. The finish is spicy and grippy, making this wine an expressive choice with excellent precision. Rating: 93/100