The exploration of global sweet fortified wines continued in a recent tasting, showcasing an eclectic selection beyond the Iberian Peninsula. Andrew Jefford, along with panelists Simon Field MW and Richard Mayson, noted how this tasting offered surprising and original wines, although none quite matched the outstanding selections from Portugal and Spain.
The first day of the two-day tasting focused on Iberian fortified wines, which were highlighted in a previous issue. The Iberian segment presented wines of exceptional quality, with seven scoring 94 or above. In contrast, the broader geographical tasting of the second day yielded three wines above 94 and two more scoring 93. Despite some comparisons, the panelists expressed enthusiasm over the non-Iberian options, highlighting the element of discovery within these wines.
The tasting opened up possibilities from regions not typically associated with fortified wines, such as Virginia in the USA and various parts of Australia. Surprisingly fascinating wines included an American fortified Tannat inspired by the Vintage Port style from Virginia, and a unique Kansas creation using the local grape Wetumka. Such explorations signify a growing curiosity and experimentation among winemakers in pioneer regions.
The standout regions in this tasting were Rutherglen from Australia and Roussillon from France. In Rutherglen, all three wines tasted received high accolades, demonstrating the region’s capacity for producing richly concentrated and balanced Muscat wines. The complexity noted in the wines from Roussillon was particularly striking, showcasing a range of aging profiles and winemaking methods. Roussillon’s wines have a traditional depth, often aged in family-owned cellars for decades.
Among the featured wines, Clos St Sebastien Le Coeur Banyuls Grand Cru from 1994 emerged as the highest rated, with tasting notes highlighting its rich, layered profile and opulent aromas. This wine exemplifies the potential of Roussillon to produce wines that combine richness with ageworthiness.
Overall, while the Iberian wines maintained a certain dominance in excellence, the second day’s tasting was far from disappointing. The panel’s insights revealed an exciting world of sweet fortified wines that continues to evolve, offering both traditional nuances and new discoveries.
For detailed tasting notes and scores, consider subscribing to the full tasting notes from The World of Fine Wine.
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