No grape variety has significantly shaped the trajectory of modern Australian wine like Chardonnay. Ken Gargett explores its history and incredible stylistic variations in Australia, where Chardonnay has become synonymous with the identity of Aussie wine.
Chardonnay’s journey in Australia is relatively brief, emerging alongside regions like Margaret River. Initially, the grape was not well-regarded, with early references overshadowed by other varieties. Max Lake’s Classic Wines of Australia (1966) hardly acknowledged it, noting only Aucerot, later identified as Chardonnay, grown primarily by Baileys of Glenrowan. Its establishment in Australia remains somewhat unclear and has been fact-checked through various resources, including Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay, which many credit as the first commercial Australian Chardonnay.
Though tartly debated, Chardonnay likely spurred into existence in Australia as early as 1876, gaining a foothold with significant events like the arrival of California cuttings in 1955. The notable FPS 1 clone, which faced challenges and adjustments, became legendary in the Margaret River region, contributing to the grape’s stellar reputation.
Despite early skepticism, Tyrrell’s claimed to have produced the first commercial Chardonnay in 1971, indirectly driven by a blend of local crime and a quest for a worthy Australian alternative to Burgundy. Their successes laid the groundwork for the evolution of Chardonnay styles, ranging from simple, fruity wines to more complex, oak-infused renditions.
Over decades, Australian Chardonnay has varied from easy-drinking offerings to rich, layered experiences that can stand up to renowned global counterparts. Winemakers utilized an array of techniques, paying homage to Burgundy while innovating unique Australian signatures. This exploration has led to Australia becoming a respected producer of Chardonnay, with 10% of the world’s plantings.
Margaret River has emerged as a standout region for Chardonnay, consistently outperforming others in competitions and showcasing exceptional quality in its wines. With only 1% of Australia’s Chardonnay vines, it has won a staggering majority of Best Chardonnay trophies in major competitions, reasserting its crucial role in Australian wine.
At its best, Australian Chardonnay is recognized as world-class, capable of impressing even the most discerning wine enthusiasts. As the reputation of this grape continues to elevate, it may soon overshadow Shiraz as the emblematic varietal of Australian wine. The journey of Chardonnay in Australia is simply beginning, suggesting an exciting future for wine lovers around the globe.
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