Louis Roederer 2025 releases: Children of chalk
Simon Field MW shares his admiration for fine wine as he attends the Louis Roederer 2025 launches in two major cities. The event, led by chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, showcases new additions to the Roederer collection, including the latest Collection, Cristal, and Coteaux Champenois, alongside a selection of Starck Brut Nature wines.
The vintages highlighted vary significantly—2018 and 2021 are especially distinct—showcasing Lécaillon’s commitment to adapting winemaking practices in light of climate change. Frédéric Rouzaud, from the family behind the estate, calls Lécaillon a “half poet and half scientist,” highlighting the estate’s 250 hectares, of which 135 are organically certified.
Lécaillon elaborates on the significance of the Roederer vineyards, drawing comparisons to Burgundy. He stresses the importance of each vineyard plot’s unique ecosystem and advocates for permaculture, where all environmental elements work together to promote growth. He mentions Roederer’s nursery established since 2002, aimed at supporting plant propagation and rootstock research.
This year’s focus on site-specific wines is exemplified through the Collection series, with 2025 anticipated to be a vintage marked by quality over quantity—excellent conditions led to no frost or diseases, allowing for optimal grape development.
In the winery, Lécaillon emphasizes fine-tuning the winemaking process, including increased oak fermentation and a reduction in dosage, aiming for balance in the wines. Chardonnay’s rising prominence in the Collection signals a shift in traditional expectations for this Reims house, which has historically favored Pinot Noir.
The new Collection 246—the first for 2026’s 250th anniversary—reflects a multifaceted approach to winemaking. It incorporates a diverse range of wines from different crus and vintages, weaving a narrative of human creativity and adaptation in winemaking.
Highlights from the tasting include:
-
Collection 246: A blend centered around Chardonnay with a chalky purity and notes of lemongrass and nectarine, showcasing balance and finesse (92–93 points).
-
Brut Nature: This cuvée, designed in collaboration with Philippe Starck, stands out for its minimalism yet is sourced from one of the estate’s best plots, emphasizing ripeness and climate adaptability. Its creamy texture is complemented by vibrant flavors of guava and mandarin (94 points).
-
2016 Cristal: Celebrated for its complexity, this wine captures the essence of high-calcium terroirs, with a forward palate featuring sun-warmed Pinot Noir and exquisite balance (97–98 points).
-
Coteaux Champenois: Revived after years of absence, this wine is crafted from low-yield plots for a richer extraction and hints at a more profound understanding of terroir.
Lécaillon’s philosophy and the 2025 releases illustrate a continuous pursuit of excellence amidst the challenges posed by a changing climate, inviting enthusiasts to appreciate the intricate tapestry of Champagne.