After gaining international acclaim for their unique wines and remarkable collection of ancient vines, winemakers on Etna are diving deeper into the specifics of their contrade by producing single-vineyard bottlings.
While battling sub-zero temperatures and the relentless wind, I found myself at 800m (2,620ft) on Etna’s northern slope, where intense rainfall—likely a result of climate change—had drenched the typically dry terrain. The area is known for its extreme weather conditions and innovative viticulture, particularly the cultivation of ancient bush vines amidst the rugged landscape of an active volcano.
The northern side of Etna enjoys a warm climate suitable for ripening the skins of the famed Nerello Mascalese grape, supported by a significant diurnal temperature variation. This is essential for achieving the grape’s delicate balance of flavor and acidity. Winemaker Giuseppe Russo, who has a substantial number of ungrafted, old vines, pointed out that the diversity in age and biotype of the grapes enriches the terroir.
Giuseppe transitioned from being a classical pianist to a winemaker in 2003 after his father’s passing, leading him to explore various vineyard parcels. His first attempt at a single-vineyard wine was San Lorenzo in 2005, despite the legal constraints of the time. Notably, he emphasizes that not all old vines produce quality wine; he often blends younger vines and employs innovative vinification methods for his more approachable A Rina blend.
The exploration of Etna’s contrade—officially defined areas within the Etna DOC—reveals immense diversity in terroir. Giuseppe has notable vineyards in prominent contrade:
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Feudo di Mezzo: This vineyard features century-old bush vines and is cherished by Giuseppe for its ability to express the essence of Nerello Mascalese. The 2022 vintage reflects this with generous red fruit flavors and wild aromas reminiscent of his childhood.
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Calderara Sottana: Situated at a higher altitude, this vineyard benefits from older pumice soil, adding complexity to its wines. The 2022 vintage is described as savory and slightly crunchy.
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Feudo in Randazzo: Another of Giuseppe’s grandfather’s vineyards that produces wines noted for their earthy aromas and firm tannins. The 2021 vintage has been highlighted as a classic.
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San Lorenzo: Known for its complex soil profile, this vineyard produces rich wines, with the Piano delle Colombe cuvée standing out for its concentration and lush texture.
Five producers make single-vineyard wines from San Lorenzo, yet Giuseppe’s iteration stands out due to its unique balance of stones and organic matter. The vineyard was established on terraces and nurtures its vines up to 85 years old.
The contrade‘s boundaries often reflect historical, geographical, and cultural shifts rather than strict agricultural divisions. For instance, disused railway tracks and lava flows have defined their borders while the terroir within these regions remains largely unexplored, presenting new opportunities for discovery.
In recent years, the resurgence of wine production on Etna—initiated around 20 years ago—has shifted the focus toward individual contrade. This renewed interest has been fueled by a deep appreciation for the region’s unique old vines.
The diversity of wines produced from Etna’s numerous contrade is immense, and as winemakers like Giuseppe Russo continue to innovate, the spotlight on Etna’s remarkable terroir will undoubtedly grow, solidifying its place in the global wine scene.