While the new manifesto from the Slow Wine Coalition has its merits, it also has a critical flaw according to Nick Ryan. The Slow Wine Coalition, an offshoot of the broader Slow Food Movement, recently introduced a Slow Food Manifesto for Good, Clean and Fair Wine. Although it contains sensible suggestions, its first major stipulation stands out as particularly problematic.
The manifesto mandates that wineries must grow a minimum of 70% of the grapes used in their wine themselves. This requirement raises concerns, as it seems arbitrary and is followed by exceptions for regions like Madeira, Napa Valley, and parts of southern Spain. If a guideline is so easily undermined, its relevance comes into question.
Ryan argues that while the notion of winemakers growing their own grapes is commendable, ownership doesn’t guarantee winemaking success. He points to the Barossa Valley as an example of how this ideal does not necessarily apply. Barossa is home to a diverse network of passionate grape growers and winemakers, many of whom have close-knit relationships despite not adhering strictly to the 70% ownership rule touted by the manifesto.
The standard of requiring grape ownership risks sidelining countless talented winemakers who operate within collaborative frameworks, thus ignoring the rich and varied interactions that characterize the wine industry. These relationships create a fabric of community that is crucial to producing high-quality wines, often through shared expertise and resources.
In short, while the manifesto aims to promote ethical wine production, it needs a thoughtful reassessment of its parameters to foster the creativity and collaboration that truly defines fine winemaking.