The progress that Georgia has made in the last decade is remarkable, particularly in two key areas. Firstly, the country has begun to greatly utilize its diverse array of indigenous grape varieties. During my initial visit in 2013, many of these varieties appeared more as curiosities than mainstream options. However, today, a significant renaissance is underway, with producers increasingly incorporating these grapes into their top wines, beyond just the well-known Saperavi and Rkatsiteli. This shift brings a broader aesthetic variety to Georgian wines and offers distinct interpretations of the country’s terroir.
Notable advancements have occurred in varietal research spearheaded by experts like David Maghradze and David Chichua. Chichua noted that "every Georgian region has at least five indigenous varieties of its own of real interest," and these are now actively cultivated and used. On a recent visit in December 2024, I was excited to taste exquisite micro-vinified wines from historic varieties in the western regions of Imereti and Guria. Highlights included the fragrant white Sakmiela, the delicate pale-red Jani, the vibrant red Argvetuli Sapere, and the rich, velvety red Skhilatubani. This gene pool not only enriches Georgia’s own wine landscape but also stands as a global resource amidst the climate challenges faced by widely grown classical varieties.
The second significant improvement lies in the quality of Georgian qvevri wines. Among the 126 samples evaluated during my panel’s tasting, we identified 12 wines of exceptional, gold medal caliber — 11 amber whites and one red. These “novel” wines adhered to the global fine wine standards of balance, complexity, and beauty. Young drinkers are quickly adapting to the unique textures and flavors of qvevri wines, and in the coming decades, Georgia’s premier producers may find their qvevri wines gracing the menus of elite restaurants worldwide.
However, this progress comes with challenges. The backdrop of Georgia’s recent political upheaval following the manipulative elections of October 2024 raises concerns for the country’s future. The pro-Russian party’s rise to power, which has halted EU accession talks and replaced the democratically elected president, threatens the stability of Georgia’s wine industry and nation. The potential for increased Russian domination would be catastrophic for both.
As a community of wine enthusiasts, it’s crucial to support Georgian winemakers as they navigate these challenges, whether by promoting their unique wines or incorporating them into our own selections from time to time.
In the near future, I plan to explore the critical balance between ripeness and freshness in wine, starting with the 2021 Petra from Tuscany’s Maremma region, a Bordeaux blend that excels with its rich fruit and vibrant acidity.