Bruno Paillard 2009 Nec Plus Ultra and 2015 Assemblage: A Tasting Review
Simon Field MW provides an insightful review of two distinctive offerings from the Bruno Paillard Champagne house: the 2009 Nec Plus Ultra and the 2015 Assemblage. The name Nec Plus Ultra translates to "the ultimate" and has historical ties to a warning inscribed on ancient pillars, indicating a desire to recapture the exquisite aromas of past Champagnes while steering clear of overly technical approaches.
2009 Nec Plus Ultra: A Vintage Reflection
The 2009 vintage, the ninth iteration of this exclusive cuvée, differentiates itself from its predecessors through a commitment to vintage integrity alongside an impressive aging process—12 years on lees and an additional 18 months after disgorgement. Winemaker Alice Paillard emphasizes the uniqueness of each vintage while maintaining strict vinification parameters. The 2009 showcases an equal distribution of Pinot Noir from prestigious grand cru villages like Verzenay, Mailly, and Bouzy, coupled with a notable increase of Chardonnay from Oger.
Alice clarifies her philosophy around dosage, explaining the approach as one of balance geared towards enhancing the vintage’s character rather than suppressing it. The dosage for the 2009 is 4.5g/l—higher than some previous vintages, allowing the wine’s warm and generous nature to shine through.
2015 Assemblage: A New Beginning
The 2015 Assemblage represents a different facet of the Bruno Paillard philosophy. Deemed a “blank page,” this wine allows for a greater range of variables in its creation, particularly in light of the challenges posed by its vintage, which faced both drought and humidity. With a blend of 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, this wine benefited from significant aging and showcases a vivid array of flavors.
The label features a vibrant painting titled Elan (Enthusiasm), symbolizing the wine’s character. Field highlights the 2015’s exuberant fruitiness and robust power, contrasting it with the more complex layers found in the 2009.
Alice Paillard articulates her ambition for the Nec Plus Ultra series, intending to create a “library” that preserves the milestones of Champagne over the decades. This ethos aligns closely with the classic and traditional elements embodied in the 2009 vintage, likely evoking sentiments reminiscent of past Champagne triumphs.
Tasting Notes
2015 Assemblage
- Composition: 58% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay
- Dosage: 4.5g/l
- Flavor Profile: Bright, fruity nose with notes of blood orange, strawberry, and a hint of spice. Rating: 93–94
2009 Nec Plus Ultra
- Composition: 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
- Dosage: 4.5g/l
- Flavor Profile: Rich, with aromas of dried fruits, ginger, and a spectrum of nuanced flavors revealing complexity. Rating: 95
The differences between these two vintages illustrate the artistry behind Champagne crafting, reflecting years of tradition and innovation within the industry.