I recently returned to New Zealand for the first time since 2019, and it’s been a wonderful experience despite battling some jet lag. My journey began in London, making stops in Dubai before finally reaching Auckland via Emirates, which provided excellent service. From Auckland, I took a short flight to Christchurch, and about 50 minutes later, I arrived in the picturesque Waipara Valley, where I’ll be spending three nights.
I’m staying in an extraordinary place: the Russell’s Cabins of the luxury Kumiko’s Guest House, adjacent to Black Estate. The guesthouse was designed by Russell Black’s wife, Kumiko, reflecting an elegant Japanese aesthetic. The cabins, set in a secluded area, are off-grid and feature beautiful views overlooking the vineyard and hills. They consist of two bedrooms and a lounge area, complete with a compostable toilet and no internet or power, creating a tranquil escape from modern life.
During my first evening, I enjoyed a delightful dinner with Sue and Paul McGregory, the owners, and Ken Stewart, their neighbor who tends to a small vineyard. We shared some excellent local wines, marking a lovely beginning to my trip. I woke up early for a breathtaking sunrise, and I’m excited to start visiting wineries soon.
Here are some noteworthy wines I tasted:
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Greystone Erin’s Chardonnay 2020: With a 14% alcohol content, this single-plot wine shows complex, spicy, nutty notes alongside pear, peach, and citrus fruits. It has a depth and rich concentration that culminates in a lovely finish. Rating: 95/100
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Forager Pinot Noir 2019: Crafted by Dom Maxwell from Greystone, this wine offers a beautiful texture with fresh pepper, wild strawberry, and red cherry flavors, finishing with subtle notes of sour cherry. Rating: 95/100
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Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2012: Now aging beautifully, this wine features warm black cherry and plum flavors with hints of olive and tea, showcasing its amazing development over time. Rating: 95/100
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Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir 2012: Selected from the estate’s oldest vines, this wine is taut, aromatic, and fresh, combining a firm structure with elements of black cherry and blackberry fruit. Rating: 96/100
The journey is just beginning, and I can’t wait to explore more of what the region offers!
For accommodations, visit: Kumiko’s Guest House.