2023 Burgundy Tasting Notes: Côte de Beaune—Volnay
Sarah Marsh MW shares insights from her tasting of the 2023 Burgundy vintage, specifically focusing on the notable producers in Volnay.
Domaine du Marquis d’Angerville
François Duvivier reported no green-harvest was performed, and the picking commenced on September 5. They used traditional biodynamic processes, ensuring the wines maintained higher energy levels. The fermentation process engaged bi-daily remontage and lasted up to 18 days, leading to wines with high alcohol levels of 13.5–14% and reasonably high pH levels. The aim has been to retain freshness and showcase each terroir’s identity, resulting in elegant and approachable wines overall.
Tasting Notes
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Volnay: Exhibits rich, black cherry fruit and lively acidity. Anticipated aging potential is until late 2025-2030. Score: 87.
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Volnay Premier Cru: A mix of fruit from Pitures and Mitans, showcases exotic spices and a generous palate. Predicted aging: 2026-2030. Score: 88.
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Volnay Premier Cru Cailleret: Juicy with strawberry fruit, characterized by a light finish that promises brightness. Expected to age until 2026-2032. Score: 90.
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Volnay Premier Cru Champans: Known for its fuller body and sturdy tannins, it’s expected to mature gracefully until 2027-2032. Score: 92.
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Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Angles: Rich and dark-fruited, this wine has depth and smooth tannins. Aging potential: 2026-2030. Score: 90.
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Volnay Premier Cru Clos des Ducs: Extremely concentrated, providing a velvety texture and an exquisite finish, suitable for aging from 2027-2032. Score: 93.
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Volnay Premier Cru Fremiets: Juicy and grippy with a touch of asphalt, it has a more subdued expression than usual. Age until 2026-2030. Score: 89-90.
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Volnay Premier Cru Taillepieds: Known for its energetic blend of blackberries and red currant, this favorite showcases tightness and intensity. Anticipated aging until 2026-2032. Score: 94.
Domaine Henri Boillot
Henri Boillot’s style this year leaned towards richer and oakier expressions. The reds and whites present with strong fruit character and well-integrated oak, leading to wines that would typically require additional aging to come into their own.
Notable wines include:
- Meursault Premier Cru Les Genevrières: High mineral tension and citrus freshness, with aging potential until 2027-2033. Score: 93-94.
- Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Mouchère: Offers intensity and precision, projected to mature until 2026-2036. Score: 94-95.
Domaine Michel Lafarge
Frédéric Lafarge noted that the growing season was moderately warm, yielding normal quantities of grapes. Their selection of wines is marked by a balance between accessibility and aging potential.
Notable mentions include:
- Meursault: Displays nutty flavors with significant depth, expected aging until 2026-2032. Score: 87.
- Volnay Premier Cru Clos du Château des Ducs: This wine stands out for its depth and silkiness with a long, opulent finish. Aging potential: 2027-2035. Score: 95.
Domaine Hubert de Montille
The harvest duration stretched from late August into mid-September. With careful green-harvesting and sorting, yields were robust. Winemaker Brian Sieve emphasized that 2023 shows promise due to its balanced chemistry and bright acidity through its wines.
Notable wines include:
- Beaune Premier Cru Les Aigrots: Full-bodied and generous with a balanced freshness, suitable for aging until 2026-2032. Score: 92.
Conclusion
The 2023 vintage in Volnay showcases the unique terroirs with wines that embody both freshness and richness. Many producers succeeded in preserving the identity of their wines while ensuring the vintage remains accessible. Exciting developments lie ahead for Burgundy enthusiasts.
For further information on the 2023 vintage across Burgundy, links to specific tasting notes can be found below: