Ricardo Freitas, a third-generation producer from Madeira, leads the renowned family firm Barbeito, admired as the island’s foremost producer. The history of winemaking on Madeira dates back to 1425, with a significant economic impact noted in the late 17th century when wine became a key export. Initially not fortified, the introduction of spirit additions in the mid-18th century marked a pivotal transformation, establishing Madeira as highly favored in America, particularly between the 18th and early 19th centuries.
Historically dominated by British merchants, the Madeira wine industry relied heavily on local Portuguese vineyard owners who produced wines that were blended and exported. Madeira’s geographic positioning made it a significant stop for ships crossing the Atlantic, enhancing its international reputation.
The 20th century, however, brought challenges. Between the 1940s and 1970s, Madeira wines became synonymous with bulk cooking wine, a shadow that Ricardo experienced firsthand during his early years with Barbeito. In 1991, the company made a bold decision to cease bulk production, focusing on maintaining quality and rebuilding inventory. This strategy involved risking short-term profit for long-term gains, particularly in sourcing high-quality, older wines from other producers.
Ricardo’s approach included significant operational changes, including the controversial decision to eliminate caramel addition to wines, which he successfully implemented without prior consultation with his mother. Over the years, he turned Barbeito’s stock into a premium offering, with an average inventory of 1.2 million liters and a commitment to producing high-quality products.
In 2017, seeking to showcase Madeira’s potential, he ventured into making table wines, supported by top-quality barrels and a focus on local varieties. Despite this diversification, sales of fortified wines remained steady.
The mentality of Madeira’s winemakers has shifted since the 1990s, as they recognized the importance of high-quality production over bulk sales. Today, only seven producers exist on the island, collaborating toward improving Madeira’s image as a premium wine region.
Ricardo’s vision transformed Barbeito’s wines, shifting from a style considered unexciting to one characterized by purity and complexity, attracting a younger consumer base. The investment in high-quality grapes, especially in a labor-short environment, exemplifies the challenges faced in maintaining production standards.
Notable Wines from Barbeito
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Barbeito Vinhas do Farrobo Bastardo 2022
- 10% alcohol
- Pale cherry red, with redcurrant aromatics and a finely balanced palate.
- Rating: 94/100
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Barbeito Vinhas de Lanço Vedelho 2020
- Fresh, expressive, with mineral notes and taut acidity.
- Rating: 94/100
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Rocim x Barbeito A Meias Verdelho Na Ânfora 2020
- Beautifully aromatic with fresh citrus notes and a crystalline palate.
- Rating: 96/100
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Barbeito Rainwater Reserva Medium Dry NV
- Juicy citrus and apricot notes with complexity.
- Rating: 93/100
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Barbeito 40 Year Old Malvasia
- Sweet yet acidic, with a complex flavor profile.
- Rating: 95/100
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Barbeito Araújo Malvasia 1895
- Highly complex with a remarkable finish.
- Rating: 99/100
Freitas’s leadership continues to elevate Barbeito as a brand synonymous with quality and innovation in the Madeira wine market.