This remarkable tasting event was organized by Stephen Browett of Farr Vintners, focusing on a direct comparison between wines sealed with cork and those sealed with screwcap across various styles and vintages. This kind of event is rare, as wineries commonly conduct internal cork versus screwcap trials, but it is unusual to see these conducted on older vintages several years later.
The motivation behind this comparison stems from notable issues with oxidation in white Burgundy since 1996, as highlighted by Browett. He noted that during his annual Southwold tastings of Bordeaux, a cork taint was present in 5-10% of the wines sampled ten years after their release. Browett’s experiences included collaborations with wineries like Kumeu River, which immediately transitioned to screwcap due to cork-related issues, and Guffens-Heynen, who also made the switch early on.
It’s important to acknowledge some critical caveats: not all corks perform the same, leading to a disparity in the aging qualities of cork-sealed wines. Therefore, results from these tastings should not be viewed as precise experiments. Furthermore, the screwcap closure involves various liners that can significantly affect oxygen transmission rates. This tasting compared wines using different closure technologies, such as Saranex and tin/saran liners.
The impressive lineup was tasted in pairs without revealing which was which, although visual differences in color often provided hints. The results were inconclusive for many, with some tasters favoring cork-sealed bottles while others preferred the screwcap. The most definitive preferences were noted for Kumeu River Chardonnays and Felton Road Pinot, with screwcap being the overwhelming favorite in these cases.
Here are some highlights from the tasting notes:
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Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2002
- (Cork) 95/100: Golden color, complex with honey and apple.
- (Screwcap) 95/100: Vibrant, youthful, with intense citrus fruit.
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Felton Road Chardonnay 2001
- (Cork) 93/100: Elegant with pear and peach.
- (Screwcap) 94/100: Bright acidity and lovely depth.
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Verget Chablis Bougros 2009
- (Cork) 95/100: Honey and spice, deep flavor.
- (Screwcap) 94/100: More evolved but still very fine.
Overall, the event reaffirmed that the debate between cork and screwcap closure remains complex, with outcomes varying based on individual wines and preferences. This tasting highlighted the intricacies in wine aging and the roles closures play in preserving quality.
For more detailed results and comparisons, visit Farr Vintners.