I had the pleasure of tasting wines with Miguel Sarzies, who is a co-owner, vigneron, and winemaker at Domaine du Gringet, a distinguished wine producer located in Ayse within the Haute Savoie appellation, near Geneva and Annecy in the French Alps. This domaine represents the new vision for Domaine Belluard, established after the passing of Dominique Belluard in 2021. The new team comprises four partners: Vincent Ruiz, Franck Balthazar, Raphaël Bennour, and Miguel Sarzies. Each partner brings a unique background, with Vincent having previously worked in the cellar with Franck and later at Gringet, Franck being a vigneron in Cornas, Raphaël acting as an importer who was connected to the wines of the former Domaine Belluard, and Miguel overseeing the winemaking.
During 2021, no wine was produced at the domaine as the grapes were sold off. The legacy of two wines made from the 2020 vintage, initiated by Dominique and completed by others, remains, one of which is Eponyme— a remarkable wine finished by Ganevat. The first vintage crafted by the new team was the 2022 vintage, which they showcased during my visit. Excitingly, in 2023, they acquired a sheepfold, converting it into a winery.
The Vin de Savoie Ayze appellation encompasses three communes: Ayse, Marignier, and Bonneville, with south-facing vineyards located at the foothills of the majestic Mole mountain. Miguel described the terroir as geological chaos, comprising limestone screes and red, white, and yellow marl. Wine production in this area dates back to the 12th century when monks began cultivating grapes.
Currently, only 20 hectares are dedicated to wine production, a significant decrease from 380 hectares in 1925 and 600 hectares before the arrival of phylloxera in 1870. The primary grape variety grown in this region is Gringet, along with a bit of Roussette d’Ayze, which is often mistakenly identified as Altesse. Today, the area has only four professional winegrowers alongside a dozen part-timers.
Globally, there are just 20 hectares of Gringet, characterized by small clusters and berries. This variety is vulnerable to downy mildew but resilient against powdery mildew. It grows vigorously, with shoots spreading in various directions. Harvest occurs at the end of September and early October. Gringet is known for effectively transmitting the terroir, offering a combination of freshness, bitterness, and minerality rather than acidity (with a typical pH of 3.4), resulting in wines rich in extract.
Domaine du Gringet manages 10 hectares, with 9.5 hectares currently planted. This includes 8.5 hectares of Gringet and half a hectare each of Altesse and Mondeuse, with half the vineyard located at the base of the hill and the other half on steep slopes at an altitude of around 450 meters.
In 2022, the domaine transitioned to organic farming, employing regenerative practices to restore soil health. Their methods include using mulches and green and yellow manures to enhance organic matter by selecting specific grass types that die off during active vine growth to minimize competition. They also avoid ploughing and engage in tressage (braiding the vines) without trimming.
The winemaking process is uncomplicated, featuring small crate harvests that undergo careful sorting. Grapes are pressed whole bunch, with a slow pressing process lasting 5-7 hours. The juice is allowed to oxidize to eliminate phenolics and exotic fruity notes. A small amount of sulfites is added before fermentation, which occurs in concrete eggs or sandstone jars. They also allow for malolactic fermentation and mature the wine on lees without racking, bottling it without adding sulfites and without fining or filtration.
The Wines
Domaine du Gringet La Bergerie 2022 Vin de Savoie Ayze
This wine, a blend from various terroirs at the foot of the hill with vines planted between 1947 and the 1980s, constitutes half of their production. It is slightly cloudy with a captivating texture, featuring fine-grained detail and chalkiness, a generous palate with modest acidity and a saline mineral quality that adds freshness to the flavors of pear, melon, and mandarin. It displays beautiful complexity, concluding with notes of chalk and liquorice. 94/100
Domaine du Gringet Etraz 2022 Vin de Savoie Ayze
Originating from a single plot of Gringet situated in stony limestone scree at the hill’s foot, with vines planted in the 1970s and 1980s, this wine is slightly cloudy. It offers fresh aromas of lime, a hint of oyster shell, and fine green notes, combined with a mineral brightness and vibrant mandarin and melon fruit on the palate. The texture is impressive, creating a long, satisfying finish. 95/100
Domaine du Gringet Chez Edouard 2022 Vin de Savoie Ayze
This wine comes from a small quarter-hectare parcel at 600 meters featuring limestone screes. With vines planted in 1915 in a gobelet (bush vines) style, it is cloudy yet bright, lively, and precise with a lovely acidity accentuating the pear, green apple, and mandarin notes. It delivers energy alongside pronounced stony minerality, finishing with delightful chalkiness. 94/100
Domaine du Gringet Le Feu 2022 Vin de Savoie Ayze
From a single vineyard plot characterized by red marl soils with vines planted in the 1970s and 1980s, this wine was originally a brand from Dominique Belluard, though this version exclusively uses a single plot. It showcases outstanding texture and depth with bold flavors of melon, pear, and mandarin, complemented by a liquorice twist and saltiness in the finish. The freshness is exceptional and offers a long, complex finish. 96/100
Domaine du Gringet Le Paille 2022 Vin de Savoie Ayze
Crafted from Gringet grown on a single plot with poor white marl soils and old vines (1929/1930) using a gobelet method, this wine boasts freshness and delicacy. It features lovely texture, with pear, mandarin, and subtle grapefruit notes. It’s fine, mineral-focused, and chalky, with real precision and a long, tingling mineral finish accented by slight grapefruit bitterness. 95/100
For more information on this exceptional producer, visit Domaine du Gringet.