We arrived at a viewpoint overlooking Collioure, but the stunning landscape was cloaked in rain clouds and swirling mist. The typically vibrant sea was now a dull grey, obscuring the beauty of the Côte de Vermeille.
Amid the dampness, a couple of trail runners emerged from the underbrush, their recent climb rewarding them with views that now seemed insignificant given the weather. One local vineyard owner remarked in jest about the futility of their efforts as the rain finally quenched the region after three years of drought—a unique mixture of joy and challenge that defines Collioure.
This region, compared to a miniature Etna or a hidden Burgundy of the south, showcases its primary grape, Grenache, known for its delicate and complex flavors. The whites of Collioure rival the reds in expression, often embodying notes of saline and mineral nuances. The landscape, a series of schist amphitheatres, hints at both hidden wealth and potential.
However, there are challenges associated with the region’s prized offerings. As Romuald Peronne, the president of the appellation Clos Saint Sebastien, noted, the traditional Banyuls wine often overshadows the unique terroir of Collioure. The fortification and aging methods used in Banyuls create wines characterized by process rather than the distinctive qualities of their vineyards.
Today, winegrowers in Collioure are uncovering their unique identities, navigating the complexities of their vineyards, which have a mix of varieties and ownership structures often making labor-intensive practices necessary. Organic cultivation is exceedingly challenging due to the steep, rocky terrain and lack of mechanization, while irrigation is strictly prohibited. Yet, vineyard owners see quality in their lower yields compared to Roussillon.
There’s a dynamic shift underway with Peronne leading efforts for independence among local winemakers. The goal is to enhance the identity of Collioure’s wines. As the region continues to evolve, more producers are focusing on understanding and representing their terroir.
The growing reputation of Collioure is evident, as the recent harvest is indicative of a turning tide; it produced more Collioure wine than Banyuls for the first time.
In this recent journey to find local wines, the Domaine Augustin’s Adéodat Collioure Rouge 2021 came to the forefront, a blend of Grenache and Carignan that encapsulates the region’s spirit—reflective of its land and crafted with care.
For more on Collioure’s evolving wine story, check out: