Walking through London reveals a dynamic blend of architectural styles, from the Brutalist Barbican to the Georgian elegance of Mayfair, alongside Gothic churches and modern skyscrapers. This juxtaposition reflects an evolutionary approach to design that often eludes the traditional wine world, where strict adherence to historical norms can stifle creativity.
The conventional wine standards often favor a harmonious blend of balance, complexity, and concentration, as defined primarily in the 20th century. This paradigm celebrates wines that are rich, well-aged, and possess integrated tannins, while frequently neglecting simpler wines that are equally thrilling. For instance, a delightful Fleurie from Michel Guignier, despite its joyful essence, might struggle to achieve high marks due to its lack of complexity by traditional standards.
The author questions why simplicity and purity are often deemed inferior to technical perfections like complexity and balance. If a fresh peach can evoke joy, why not a straightforward wine? Many acclaimed wines may be technically excellent but lack individual character. These wines often receive higher scores due to adherence to established taste norms, which critics and tasters feel obligated to follow.
This codified approach to wine scoring tends to penalize distinctive characteristics, such as elevated alcohol levels in wines. Certain styles like Amarone or some Roussillon reds are unjustly criticized for their alcohol content, overlooking the unique tastes they offer. Meanwhile, classic styles like Sherry or Sauternes may receive special consideration, revealing an inherent bias towards historical recognition over contemporary merit.
As an evolving understanding of wine appreciation grows, we may need to recognize that personality can hold more value than mere perfection. Echoing the sentiments of critic John Ruskin, who defended non-traditional aesthetics in Gothic architecture, the author argues that wine evaluation should also embrace diverse qualities beyond traditional benchmarks.
This month, the author recommends Salvatore Molettieri, Cinque Querce Riserva, Taurasi 2007, suggesting that wines from the southern Italy’s Aglianico grape should be appreciated on their own merit rather than forced into comparisons with varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon. The piece underscores the importance of listening to what each wine has to say, rather than molding them into preconceived notions of quality.