Essential Reading for Burgundy Enthusiasts
Laurent Gotti’s The Grand Crus of Burgundy: Detailed Atlas and Characterization of the Climats is an invaluable resource for wine lovers, particularly those focused on Burgundy. The book aims to unpack the complexity of Burgundy’s grand cru vineyards through intricate maps that illustrate vineyard ownership and the unique features of each climat.
Gotti starts with a bold statement about the essence of Burgundy’s renowned terroir, emphasizing that while natural conditions play a significant role, the contributions of people over centuries are crucial to understanding the excellence of these wines.
The book includes a map detailing the seven grand cru climats of Chablis, which complements the main focus on the Côte d’Or. Gotti argues that the historic landscapes of Burgundy require careful documentation to appreciate their significance fully. He notes that tasting grand cru wines can bring about high expectations, often influenced by their renowned status and price.
However, Gotti’s praise does not shy away from acknowledging the challenges within the classification of vineyards. For example, the controversy surrounding Clos de Vougeot, which spans 50 hectares but is divided among 80 owners, each with a minimal holding, highlights ongoing debates about the effectiveness of such subdivisions in harnessing the vineyards’ true potential.
Furthermore, the book benefits from insights from respected vignerons who share their perspectives on various climats. For instance, Marie-Christine Mugneret-Gibourg discusses Clos de Vougeot’s harvesting techniques, while Jeremy Seysses describes Clos de la Roche as "forgiving" in terms of vinification.
While Gotti’s work is largely a commendation of Burgundy’s grand crus, it also hints at areas where improvement might be needed, particularly regarding the criteria that define a grand cru wine’s uniqueness. Despite this, Grand Crus serves as an essential guide for those fascinated by the intricacies of Burgundy’s vineyards, offering both detailed information and broader reflections on the historical and cultural contexts that define this legendary wine region.
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