Joanna Simon explores the background and preparation of the Hispanic American dish featuring raw fish or seafood—and the ideal wines that complement it.
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Last month, I couldn’t accurately attribute the Greek stew kydonato to a specific wine region, and this month, I’m discussing another versatile dish—one that has an even broader appeal: ceviche. This dish of raw fish or seafood marinated in citrus juices to firm up the proteins appears in countless adaptations across Hispanic American nations, particularly those along the Pacific coast. My first experience with ceviche (cebiche, sebiche, or seviche) was during a cooking class in London where we focused on Argentine recipes and paired various wines with them, which I will elaborate on later.
Many Chileans are such avid fans of the dish that newcomers to Chile might easily conclude they have arrived at the original and current hub of ceviche. However, Peru holds a stronger claim to its origins. Historical evidence suggests that the coastal communities of northern Peru, particularly during the era of the Moche civilization (circa 100–800 AD), consumed their fish raw, and similar practices are noted in the later Chimú and Inca societies. In his 1534 work, Verdadera Relación de la conquista del Peru, Francisco de Xerez, an explorer and chronicler who served as the personal secretary to conquistador Francisco Perez, detailed that the indigenous people consumed “meat and fish, all raw.”
The indigenous peoples of the Americas had access to chili peppers, but they did not have citrus fruits or onions, which are now staples in most ceviche recipes. There are theories suggesting they might have used chicha de jora (a type of Peruvian corn beer) for marinating their fish, or perhaps tumbo, a cousin of passion fruit. However, Maricel Presilla, the author of the influential book Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America, argues that tumbo works too slowly for marinating. She posits that a mix of local acidic chilies and cochayuyo, a kelp still utilized in some coastal cevicherias and for vegan ceviches, would more likely have been the choice.
The first known reference to ceviche appears in an 1820 patriotic song from Peru. While this cannot be verified, the earliest established recipe or detailed description is documented. It was published in 1866 in Lima Or Sketches of the Capital of Peru, Historical, Statistical, Administrative, Commercial, and Moral by the remarkable Manuel Atanasio Fuentes, who held many roles including census-taker, statistician, journalist, administrator, social commentator, political satirist, historian, advocate, and medical expert.
Describing “the picantes (spiced dishes)” under the section on National Repasts, Fuentes writes, “the most intense picante, the one that often brings tears, is the seviche. It consists of small bits of fish or crabs, marinated in the juice of bitter oranges with plenty of pimento and salt. After resting for several hours until the fish is thoroughly infused, and effectively cooked by the heat and acidity of the orange juice, it is ready to serve.” Modern ceviche continues to evolve, yet the saying persists, “If you don’t cry with ceviche, it’s not a good ceviche.”
Strengthening Peru’s assertion over ceviche, UNESCO recognized it in December of last year as part of its esteemed Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list for Peru. This acknowledgment emphasizes the dish’s significance to the nation’s cultural identity, the crucial role played by artisanal sustainable fishers, and the traditional female ceviche cooks operating in cevicherías. It also highlights the various regional interpretations and the generational transfer of knowledge regarding ingredients and preparation methods. Additionally, since 2004, June 28 has been celebrated as El Día Nacional del Cebiche, a national day dedicated to ceviche.
UNESCO’s mention of regional diversity is evident in Peru: The Cookbook (2015, Phaidon), authored by the renowned chef and Peruvian cuisine ambassador Gastón Acurio, which features various styles such as Amazonian, Piurano, Trujillano, and Arequipa ceviches. The book also includes recipes from Nikkei, Chinese, and Italian cuisines, alongside some (out of a total of 24) that utilize ingredients like mushrooms, artichokes, duck, and snails in place of fish. Acurio aptly describes ceviche as a “blank canvas, not just a recipe.” However, for the purpose of this article, I will focus on traditional fish and seafood ceviches as recognized by UNESCO.
The classic marinade for traditional ceviche is known as leche de tigre (tiger milk), comprising lime juice, fish broth, chilies, sliced onions, and occasionally cilantro, garlic, celery, ginger, and other spices. However, it can also be a simpler version of the marinade that excludes the broth.
There is a wide variety of fish used, but a traditional Peruvian ceviche typically features firm-fleshed white fish (with Gastón Acurio frequently recommending sole, croaker, or grouper), cut into cubes. In Chile, halibut is commonly used (among many other types of fish) and it is also a popular choice for ceviche here in the UK.
The duration for marinating ceviche can be a contentious topic. While chefs like Acurio often serve it almost immediately, while the fish remains firm, older recipes from 1866 suggest extended marinades. Some modern recipes still recommend marinating for at least 20 minutes, with some going up to three hours. The Nikkei culture, known for its sashimi practices, is frequently credited with promoting shorter marinating times.
To serve ceviche optimally, it should be enjoyed two to three minutes after preparation, which necessitates having chilled wine ready. Chilling is essential since successful wine pairings with ceviche predominantly involve white wines. The wine should possess ample acidity to balance the citrus juice and onion flavors, which eliminates most red wines and many rosés (the few high-acid rosés typically lack depth due to being harvested too early). Furthermore, I have found that most skin-contact whites do not pair well either, as they often showcase insufficient acidity or too overpowering flavors.
The grape variety that has proven to be the most successful for pairing is Sauvignon Blanc. This might explain Chile’s tight association with ceviche: the country produces Sauvignon Blancs, frequently from coastal vineyards, that embody a blend of precision, intensity, clear acidity, and a saline character that complements ceviche beautifully. Notable examples include Ventisquero Grey Sauvignon Blanc 2023 and Kalfu Sumpai Sauvignon Blanc 2022, both hailing from Atacama, which is the driest desert globally, yet only a short distance from the ocean.
Considering Peru, it is likely that the cultivation of vines there predates that of Chile and Argentina. However, with the arrival of phylloxera in 1888, there was a significant decline, and a revival did not occur until the 1970s. Several wineries, such as Tacama, Queirolo, and Apu Winery (whose vineyards are situated at 2,850m [9,350ft]), produce and bottle Sauvignon Blanc. However, these efforts are on a relatively small scale, and I do not have familiarity with their offerings.
Beyond the borders of South America, my attention shifts to Marlborough, particularly its cooler Awatere subregion where one can find the Spoke Awatere Sauvignon Blanc 2023, or perhaps to South Africa for Klein Constantia’s 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, which is noted for its stony and mineral qualities, predominantly wild-fermented.
Moving beyond Sauvignon, grape varieties like Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Assyrtiko, and Albariño/Alvarinho can all shine in specific styles and regions.
Riesling typically brings the right acidity for ceviche, although its fruit can sometimes overpower the dish. In the case of a bone-dry Clare Valley Riesling, the lime intensity might be too much for a delicate fish like halibut. However, a recent perfect pairing was a halibut ceviche with lime caviar and elderflower jelly, designed by chef Chris Hannon of Cliveden House hotel to complement an Oregon Riesling, specifically the off-dry, petrol-edged Phelps Creek Underwood Mountain Vineyard Riesling 2021. This pairing is noteworthy, and as Hannon remarked, it refreshes the classic ceviche preparation with a subtler adornment of heat.
Similarly, while Chenin Blanc may not universally complement ceviche, a bone-dry Savennières with its crispness and slight honey notes can be a successful match, such as the Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2019. Additionally, Santorini Assyrtiko can work well if it avoids overpowering mineral profiles; as can fine Rías Baixas Albariño, particularly from the cooler, wetter Salnés subregion, and quality Vinho Verde Alvarinho from renowned producers like Anselmo Mendes and Soalheiro.
I often find it challenging to match Torrontés with ceviche, despite it being the featured grape variety for the Argentine ceviches in a cooking class I attended years back. Even the more refined and intricate Argentine Torrontés available today tend to be overly aromatic for ceviche. However, if you’re intrigued by this pairing, I recommend opting for a ceviche that highlights sweeter shellfish, particularly shrimp or prawn.