Terry Theise kicks off his exploration of new wines from Württemberg luminary Christian Dautel, focusing on his offerings of Trollinger, Lemberger, and Riesling.
By Terry Theise
Dautel exemplifies the current Württemberg wine scene, which mirrors the broader shifts in wine consumption. Today’s wine enthusiasts are fewer but more discerning, a shift from the old days when local co-operatives churned out simple wines for undemanding local consumers,
Christian Dautel’s father pioneered change in their winemaking approach, adopting practices seen in his travels across various primarily French wine regions. Though I have not experienced those early wines, they were reputedly solid for their era. Christian not only respects but also builds upon his father’s legacy, continuing their collaborative efforts seamlessly.
Today’s Dautel wines have less alcohol and less wood—or in any case less overt wood—and like many smart producers he seeks to make wines with flavors arising from within rather than flavors affixed from without. His Pinot Noirs are not only wholesome, sophisticated and graceful; they come from a vintner who appreciates the viscera of red Burgundy and applies that frame of reference to his own wines. They are not at all facsimiles of Burgundy. They are German PN made by a man who gets Burgundy.
The traditional varieties—in this case Lemberger, Trollinger, and Pinot Blanc—are so elevated in quality the drinker of 30 years ago wouldn’t recognize them as Württemberg. The Rieslings move seamlessly into the highest echelon of German Riesling. Though I didn’t taste them this time, his sparkling wines are first class.
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There were 28 wines in all, consisting of two vintages of each wine in the range of PN, Chardonnay, Lemberger, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling. My first run through them took me five days, and in effect I’ve been living with Weingut Dautel for the last 12 days (and for the next ten too, from all appearances. I’ve had very few wines other than these, since tasting the first bottle They continue to be joyful, interesting, and useful. None has deteriorated and many have improved.
Dautel is a testament to the art of winemaking, epitomizing expertise not only in its collection or the local varieties but universally across all wine. Here, craft blends with natural intuition and precision in taste and balance, enhanced by the vintner’s grounded and humorous nature.
2022 Dautel Trollinger
This wine, known as Schiava or Vernatsch depending on your geographical relation to Bolzano, is charmingly addictive. It’s often enjoyed slightly chilled—a preference reflected in my tasting it at 60°F (15.5°C).
Despite the screwcap sometimes releasing a slight reductive scent—an odd charm by itself—the wine’s allure is mainly revealed mid-palate with irresistibly engaging fruit flavors. Initially, the wine presents an unusual, almost tannic, gravelly texture, referred to as “structure”, suggesting a robust, tightly knit composition.
The wine offers a delightful taste yet appears slightly different this year, possibly due to the overall characteristics of 2022 which bring a hint of coarseness. Typically lively, Trollinger presents a charming blend of tomato water, violets, and tomato leaf. However, this year, it seems a bit subdued, as though it’s been gently reprimanded for being overly spirited, now sitting quietly and well-behaved. Time will tell if it manages to recover its usual playful nature.
As time passed, the initial reduction gradually dissipated, an expected transformation. However, a pleasant surprise awaited on the seventh day when opening the bottle released a sweet, inviting aroma that filled the air. The wine had matured beautifully, resembling an exquisite Bardolino in complexity and appeal. Eagerly, I anticipate enjoying the remaining portion of this bottle with enthusiasm.
This selection represents a quartet; it includes two vintages each of premier crus and the grand cru. Known locally as Blaufränkisch, Württemberg’s traditional red grape variety feels reminiscent of a classic Cahors, or Old World Malbec, providing structure and an elegant coolness, firmly fitting into the claret style which is more upright compared to the generally rounder Pinot Noirs.
2021 Lemberger Sonnenberg, Bönnigheim +
You know how a wine can sometimes just smell alive? This particular bottle exudes that lively aroma. The complexity it radiates from the Jancis glass is entirely captivating.
Initially, it presents a cool, almost distant demeanor. The characteristic sharp acidity of 2021, which posed concerns with some Rieslings, is mellowed as you travel south, enhancing the red wines. Here, every typical descriptor you can think of is lined up and ready for attendance. “Violets!” Sir, yes SIR! “Blackberries!” Sir, yes SIR!
I adore this wine. It doesn’t try to please or conform; rather, it effortlessly radiates its laid-back complexity, seemingly indifferent to the impact it creates. Yet, it manages to impress profoundly; its rich, tangible extracts deliver an explosive complexity of mints and resins, tethered to subtly sweet fruit. However, it’s crucial to note that the fruitiness is indirect, and the wine garners its grandeur from a vigorous expression of myriad other varietal flavors.
If ever you have the fortune to compare this with the 2019 vintage side by side, you would witness the beginning and pinnacle of Lemberger. Letting this wine breathe in the glass slowly reveals layers of cloves, carob, and a touch of funky iris.
This wine might not be seductive, but its tertiary finish is unexpectedly delightful, ending with an intense floral touch. I once discussed with Valerie Kathawala from TRINK magazine—a publication worth subscribing to—about rejecting the idea that Pinot Noir is the “red Riesling”. Instead, I proposed, “It’s Blaufränkisch.” This wine exemplifies that statement, echoing the unique merits of Riesling in taste and character.
2020 Lemberger Sonnenberg, Bönnigheim +
For many, this wine will be more appealing. It is, even to me, more “attractive” in its way. It starts smooth, is softer and seems more familiar. My friends at Recchiuti chocolate in San Francisco often mention their “dark milk” chocolate, which is a staple in our home. This wine reminds me of that chocolate—it finds a balance.
Perhaps I’m inexperienced—I don’t typically sample Bordeaux wines (or any, really) and rarely indulge in Cabernet—but this particular wine truly delivers. It feels more supple than the ’21, yet is anything but soft. It effectively reorganizes the elements of its younger version; leading with robust fruitiness while the herbal and mineral notes follow, all exuding a relaxed and comfortable vibe.
The wine also carries a sophisticated demeanor with mature tannins and an almost truffle-like earthiness. Instead of the explicit complexities of the ’21, this one offers a richer umami flavor. It’s more opulent, more sensual, and although it’s less intellectually stimulating than the ’21, it’s still very thought-provoking.
It was a week before any signs of oxidation appeared in a bottle nearly finished (a bottle thoroughly enjoyed repeatedly). This subtle development wasn’t unpleasant. Nor does it present any problem to finish the bottle swiftly!
Indeed, what a remarkable duo.
2021 Lemberger Michaelsberg, Cleebronn +
The label discretely reads “Lemberger,” with the “GG” only identifiable through the embossed bottle, which, in addition, feels unusually heavy. Such gimmicks are unnecessary and detract from the user’s experience. Although the reasoning behind minimal label information may be compared to practices in Burgundy, prioritizing consumer clarity should be the foremost concern. Nonetheless, my objections are likely to be overlooked.
The wine displays greater intensity than that of the premiers crus, a notable characteristic suggesting its importance. It possesses a slightly funky aroma, which I personally find appealing. Contrary to typical expectations of a “GG” wine as something exalted and deep, I approach these wines skeptical of their authenticity, needing convincing of their merit—a stance influenced by the often pretentious packaging.
Turning away from my critiques, let’s discuss the quality of the wine itself. It is undeniably superb. The intense, almost fierce presence of the wine is immediately striking, authentically impressive. Yet, whether this intensity holds more aesthetic value than the more accessible elegance of the premiers crus remains a point for debate.
But don’t let me ignore how VERY GOOD THIS WINE IS. Its concentration is valid, it isn’t driven by oak or excessive tannin, and it’s honestly concentrated and as strong as Samson. There’s a lot to admire, not least of which are the (typical) mistakes it DID NOT MAKE. Chief among them is a form of “concentration” that can sometimes feel immaturely assertive, and that is not the case here. In fact, the wine grew in grace and cogency the longer it was open.
But with that in mind, what about the whole “GG’ matter? I mean, if you assert a grand cru, you have to back up both the assertion and the price you charge for the actual wine, and I wonder, often, whether one does that with external affectations of the “significance” the category (and price) suggests. Because what I am tasting here is an excellently rendered wine of strength, honestly justified and without recourse to all the ancillary distractions these wines are often subjected to—but what I am not tasting is a particularity of “Michaelsberg-ness” whereby the cru displays its cru-ness.
I apologize to Christian Dautel and his truly wonderful wine for obtruding with all my bloody opinions! My issues aren’t with him, but with the system that encloses him. He’s my hero.
2020 Dautel Lemberger Michaelsberg, Cleebronn ++
Same kvetches as above. Interestingly also, the same initial funk, in both cases fleeting.
They suggest that there’s a notable similarity, which intensifies over time, between Lemberger (Blaufränkisch) and Pinot Noir, and it’s discernible in this instance. When sampled from the Riedel (Chianti Classico) glass, distinguishing whether it’s one variety or the other becomes elusive. The Jancis brings more clarity, as tends to be its capability.
In this instance, the distinguished GG label is supported by a type of ethereal quality that the ’21 version lacked and probably couldn’t achieve. There’s evident intensity, yet it’s paired with a relaxed, enduring mid-palate flavor and a kind of para-sensual “sweetness” that was unexpectedly shown by Lemberger.
Essentially, I’m suggesting that “GG” should not merely proclaim itself through more intensity but rather through more beauty. Perhaps, the ’21 vintage didn’t accommodate this expression, but it’s quite apparent now. Though possible, lining up the associations would be tedious for me, yet what stands out is that this wine presents a perfect blend of disciplined strength, fruity sweetness, and a firm yet opulent structure. It offers a comprehensive, almost 3-ring circus of flavors which satisfies at every level. The sought-after result is the yum experience that transcends mere delight, incorporating various intricate details that provoke thoughts of “It’s THIS—no, it’s THAT—no, it’s SOMETHING ELSE…”
I actually tasted these last, though I feel it makes more sense to place them here. After five days of immersion in the “Pinot Types” (red and white) and the fine Lembergers, I’d nearly forgotten that Dautel makes Rieslings, and it is a total blast to remember how superb they are.
Here’s a little mise en scene. The second time I taste these it’s part of a re-taste of the whole range, and I’m tasting the Rieslings at the end. I poured the first wine right after the Weissburgunder -S- and you can hardly imagine two more disparate wines. It is also about to storm outside, and since I taste outside I’m awash in petrichor and a sudden cool wet wind. The house is darkening….and there’s the first rumble. My phone says it will rain in nine minutes. A ridiculously fresh Riesling is in my glass.
2023 Riesling
The estate-level wine, like all but one of the Rieslings, only says “trocken” on the side label.
This wine is refreshingly effervescent (a trait I appreciate) and carries the distinct flavors of juniper and radish from start to finish on the GG path. Christian Dautel refers to this as the gin and tonic taste, which is quite apt.
The wine is outstandingly good, particularly when tasted from a Jancis glass; it leans towards the crisp side (which stops me from downing it quickly) and despite its almost brash vivacity, it portrays quite the depth. Flavors of lime, citrus, and pepper unfold as it breathes. There seems to be a faint hint of sweetness. It’s perfectly fine for the wine to have an edge, to be a bit rough around the edges.
Indeed, even a so-called “everyday” Riesling deserves attention and discussion, though it’s easy to get carried away. In a previous assessment, I noted, “You don’t need an exceptional Riesling to demonstrate that Riesling itself is extraordinary,” and it’s precisely this fundamental, unadorned quality that highlights its unique brilliance.
2022 Riesling +
The yearling presents increased umami and more pronounced fruit flavors, incorporating a distinctive TDN character, often likened to “petrol.” It also showcases a rich array of “sweet-green” herbs such as wintergreen, verbena, and anise hyssop, capped with a remarkable richness of taste.
Despite my initial reservations about the year 2022, I find this wine far superior to its younger sibling, exceeding its class expectations so remarkably that one can’t help but be astounded by its value. I’m curious if any is left, and if not, I certainly hope you have some; this wine represents the pinnacle of such offerings.
The mid-palate is overwhelmingly vibrant, bursting with that notable sweet-green essence. It even conjures a connection to the Wachau region; a blind tasting might well misplace it by about 850 kilometers to suggest an origin in Wachau, with Alzinger as the perceived producer.
Structurally, the wine is as unlikely as it is delicious, propelled by a salty vitality that drives right through to a finish reminiscent of fresh, authentic wasabi. It introduces an unexpected, yet seemingly inherent dimension to Riesling, a dimension that feels as if it was always meant to be, perhaps merely overlooked until now. A late discovery—one might joke it was left forgotten in the car—but one that must be experienced before exiting. “Don’t leave until you try this,” one might say after rediscovering such a hidden gem.
2023 Riesling Bönnigheim
This village wine represents the essence of Gipskeuper terroir, challenging those who doubt the influence of soil on flavor. If skeptical, compare it with the Weissburgunder grown in the same soil, and see if you still believe variety is more dominant than terroir. This commentary deliberately avoids the word “trumps” – a term we choose not to employ in our descriptions.
Its uniqueness is undeniable, though it might be too pointed for some palates, and perhaps could display a bit more robustness. If I were to critique minutely, I’d note the pronounced phenolic finish.
Take a moment, however, to consider when you last encountered a wine that evoked scents of osmanthus incense or approached the aroma of peppermint without the often associated overpowering intensity. This wine stands as sharply unique, bordering on bizarre in the most wonderful way, crafting a rough-hewn triumph of distinctive essence.
Go on, eschew the hedonic just this once. And consider what Riesling can do. The variety has a plastic, adaptable brain and the wines will say things you never thought you would hear.
2022 Riesling Bönnigheim
It has “the ’22 aroma” in common with the estate wine, but layered over with the wildly spicy flavor from the terroir, both cardamom and ginger and also several octaves of pepper, from bell pepper to (barely) smoked paprika to a high-toned peppercorn like Tasmania or even Timut. The overall effect is smoky, or “smoky,” but much more campfire than the blatant aroma of “smoked” foods.
Jumping ahead, the finish is earthy, chewy, “rural.” But from the Jancis glass the suit is pressed and the tie is knotted, albeit the body isn’t quite at ease in it. In that sense it has more of the sometimes-dubious nature of the vintage, a sense of being ill at ease. The minerality displayed from the Jancis glass goes some of the way to reconciling what otherwise feel like disparate parts.
I admire (and love) each of those individual characteristics because I value uniqueness highly. However, the overall unity of these aspects is also important, and in this instance, I find the integration could be smoother. My opinion may evolve with further testing, but the coarse end, typical of the 2022 vintage, reinforces my initial judgment.
Ultimately, this brings up a point of perspective—are we in search of pleasure, or critique? This wine could surely be enjoyed casually if we focus on its appealing traits rather than the minor details a critic might pinpoint. As a critic myself, I often grapple with a kind of serious guilt for being overly meticulous, and the way to mitigate this feeling is by differentiating between criticizing and simply enjoying. I stand by my critiques, yet I acknowledge they only represent a fragment of the whole truth.
2022 Steingrüben, Bönnigheim GG
The downside is that “Riesling” is only mentioned on a secondary label, but the upside is that this GG has an alcohol content of just 12.5%.
Developed on the unique Schilfsandstein bedrock, layered above Gipskeuper and shell-limestone, this Riesling from Germany stands out among the elite. The 2022 vintage captures the essence of its lineage beautifully, presenting itself without introducing new facets absent in former vintages.
The wine sparkles with high-altitude notes of spearmint and tarragon, offering a longer finish that suggests a deeper maturity, perceived as an umami-like “sweetness.” It delivers enhanced intensity, persistence, and a satisfying vinosity that justifies its premium, yet I am on the lookout for something unprecedented which prevails in other selections.
It might be the gingery top notes or the complex, shimmering finish where it finds its distinction. While the wine is certainly excellent, previous vintages have left a stronger impression. However, it might deserve another, more focused tasting.
Currently, as a thunderstorm rages, the smaller foliage is toppled by the wind. The wine appears somewhat rough at this moment. At 4:19pm, as the streetlights flicker on, the primary qualities of the cru are discernible and commendable, though the overall presentation feels clumsy.
2021 Steingrüben, Bönnigheim GG ++
It must be stated unequivocally: This wine is a pinnacle of refinement.
So, what are we to think of the 2021 vintage? In its youth, its qualities are not just persuasive but incontrovertibly so. The vibrant structural elegance appears to channel an array of mineral tastes while lifting the notion of “fruit” to a nearly ethereal plane, one seemingly beyond what our taste buds can comprehend.
My lingering question remains—what comes next?
Reviewers often assess wines based on initial impressions of their young state, speculating on how these wines may mature. It is tempting to label a resounding young wine as “great” with the expectation that it will always remain superior. This assumption is often reasonably accurate, as some wines are more consistent in their development than others.
What remains to be considered is the potential evolution of the characteristics that make this wine outstanding. Will the vividly herbal and steely notes present today turn vegetal after a decade, or will they mature into a gentle, forest-like sweetness resembling the current conifer-like flavor? The “98 points” that a reviewer might assign today could actually complicate understanding this evolution.
I am privileged to ponder these points with an exceptional wine in my glass. Unlike some reviewers, I do not prescribe the ideal timing to enjoy a wine at its peak because its future development is unpredictable. What I can confidently state is that this wine is extraordinarily delightful at the moment, without any guarantees that it will improve, though it might.
With such a captivating Riesling available now, why consider delaying the pleasure of its consumption today? What more could one desire than the exhilarating experience it offers right now?
2022 Schlipschälde, Bönnigheim
This wine is a Riesling with an alcohol content of 11.5%. Although it qualifies as a “VDP Grosse Lage,” it is not classified as a GG and contains an undisclosed amount of residual sugar (RS).
The presence of RS was originally unintended, yet it was retained due to its pleasing contribution to the wine’s taste. The exact amount of RS is not disclosed, yet it is noted for its role in reducing the alcohol content by about 1%.
Despite its presence, the RS does not make itself apparent in the wine’s profile. The wine remains strikingly vibrant and is deemed the finest of the 2022 Rieslings presented. The vintage’s characteristic gritty finish might have benefited from a slight increase in RS. Yet, it’s the subtle, yet impactful, undetectable RS that seamlessly integrates the elements, acting like a perfect scarf pulling the ensemble together. The enhancement of flavors by sugar, much like salt, is significant, and its often overlooked role remains a curious puzzle.
This exquisite wine is operating at full capacity. It introduces distinct flavors of juniper and salt, enhanced by unique notes of plum blossom and beets, adding a layer of fruitiness and conversation that ultra-dry wines—which are delightful—cannot offer.
The wine also exhibits a form of untamed nature through its sweet-acid balance, with “sweetness” acting subtly in the background. It is a brilliant and educational example of winemaking.