Website: http://www.luispato.com/
Luis Pato, synonymous with ‘duck’ in Portuguese, stands as the most notable figure in the Bairrada region. Historically viewed as an innovator, Pato revitalized a dwindling wine region. However, labeling him merely as modernizer does not do him justice, as his methods also preserve the essence of tradition, especially his dedication to the indigenous Baga grape. When Bairrada’s regulations evolved to permit the use of diverse grape varieties, Pato embraced a neo-traditional approach. Despite the modern tendencies in his winemaking process, he remained committed to traditional varieties, steering clear of the exotic alternatives others pursued.
Baga is infamous for producing robust red wines that are initially harsh and also excels in creating sparkling whites that deliciously complement Bairrada’s culinary pride, the renowned suckling pig, leitão. While Baga has been criticized for yielding overly tannic and somewhat austere wines, Pato’s craftsmanship reasserts its dignity. The grape’s profile can be compared to Italy’s Nebbiolo or Aglianico, and in favorable years, it mirrors the finesse of Pinot Noir. This is partly attributed to the region’s calcareous soils and Pato’s meticulous viticulture that ensures optimal ripeness and alcohol balance.
Pato’s expertise originates from his chemical engineering background before he took the helm of his family’s winery in the early 1980s. His innovative spirit quickly emerged as he introduced destemming and the use of small oak barrels, including new ones, and incorporated Touriga Nacional into his blends. His progressive techniques soon drew critical acclaim, marking a modern shift that garnered both praise and skepticism.
For a stint from 1999 to 2008, Luis Pato’s wines weren’t labeled as ‘Bairrada’ but ‘Beiras’ instead. This change was a protest against what Pato perceived as an unfit appointment to the Bairrada wine authority by the Portuguese government. He shared in a 2007 interview that changing the designation was akin to showing a ‘yellow card’. By the 2008 vintage, he returned to using the Bairrada appellation.
Pato was progressive in his approach, being the first from overseas to judge at the International Wine Challenge in London, one of the largest blind tasting competitions globally. He refers to the experience as his ‘tasting university’. He currently manages 60 hectares of vineyards, producing various wines from 20 distinct blocks, exploring diverse terroirs across Bairrada.
The lineup of wines is extensive, but it is anchored by four premier reds: the Vinhas Velhas, Vinha Pan, Vinha Barrosa, and the exceptional Pé Franco, crafted from ungrafted vines in his Riberinho vineyard. Additionally, he offers a notable white wine, Vinho Formal, which is based on a historical 1867 map by António Augusto de Aguiar that demarcated superior white wine regions in Bairrada. This map, displayed in the Bairrada museum, influenced Pato to purchase the Formal vineyard, known for its chalky clay soil, producing a structured, complex white wine capable of aging well.
A documentary featuring Baga and Bairrada includes Luis Pato, appearing around the 03:40 mark.
One of the distinctive techniques Luis Pato utilizes in his vineyards is what he terms the ‘precision harvest’. This method was first implemented by Pato in 1995 with a green harvest where a third of the grapes were removed at veraison. Nowadays, he takes about half the grapes off the vines in two stages; one third during the typical green harvest at veraison, and the remainder, which consists of colored yet immature grapes, later. These latter grapes are specifically used for his sparkling Baga wine. Pato picks the second bunch on each stem, which is less mature than the first bunch. He describes his approach as a combination of ‘old world tradition with new world precision vinification’.
These tastings occurred in May 2023 and February 2024.
Luis Pato Vinha Pan Bruto 2018 Bairrada, Portugal
Baga grapes with no added sulfites are used, and the must undergoes hyperoxygenation. It’s disgorged freshly without any dosage, delivering lovely tangy fruit flavors including mandarin and lemon, alongside a juicy, crystalline texture with a hint of herbs. 91/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan Bruto 2015 Bairrada, Portugal
Disgorged six months before tasting, this wine has no added dosage or sulfites. It presents a very fine, toasty character with spices and lemon, complemented by dried herbs. There’s also a presence of pear and peach flavors with a finely spiced note and robust acidity. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2023 Bairrada, Portugal
Made in stainless steel, this wine showcases a linear, focused profile with vibrant notes of citrus, pear, and a touch of peach richness. It maintains a refreshing quality. 93/100
Luis Pato Maria Gomes 2022 Bairrada, Portugal
Containing 12.5% alcohol, this wine is produced from free run juice and is both fermented and aged in stainless steel. It exudes a floral aroma accompanied by pear, lemons, and white peach, alongside hints of table grape. It’s fruity, vibrant, and has a generous flavor. 90/100
Luis Pato Parcela Cândido 2021 Bairrada, Portugal
Cercial grapes are fermented in 500-litre chestnut casks with temperature control, offering greater porosity than oak. The result is a fruity wine featuring pear and citrus, endowed with depth and generosity, structured and with a slight lemony edge. 93/100
Luis Pato Parcela Cândido 2022 Bairrada, Portugal
This wine is lively and substantial, marked by good acidity and a mineral profile. Flavors of pear and grapefruit dominate, creating a wonderfully fruity expression. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal Branco Bical 2021 Bairrada, Portugal
13% alcohol. This wine stands out for its impressive qualities. It displays some color and emits a complex aroma featuring wax and lime, complemented by grapefruit notes. On the palate, it presents layers of pithy citrus, yellow plum, and white peach, enriched with a profusion of mineral textures. The finish is firm, waxy, and taut. With its high mineral content and sharp acidity, this white wine promises to mature gracefully over many years, offering a fresh, complex, and focused profile. Truly remarkable and quite delightful. 95/100
Luis Pato Quinta do Ribeirinho Branco Sercailinho 2021 Bairrada, Portugal
13% alcohol. Cultivated on 8 hectares of sandy soil, Luis harvests Sercialinho grapes for this vintage. It features free-run juice that is fermented and aged in chestnut casks. The wine is refreshingly mineral and refined, marked by excellent acidity and a pure, brightly flavored fruit profile. It demonstrates great precision in its focus. 95/100
Luis Pato Quinta do Ribeirinho Branco Sercailinho 2022 Bairrada, Portugal
This edition is vibrant and highlighted by its lively acidity. It presents a stony, fine texture with appealing lemony fruit tones, characterized by precise crafting. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Tinto 2021 Bairrada, Portugal
13% alcohol. Made from the Baga grape, this wine exhibits a vivid cherry red hue and proffers floral cherry aromas alongside spicy strawberry with a slight chalky hint. The palate experience is supple and fresh, punctuated by vivid but well-tempered tannins, adding a savory nuance and gentle character. This is a refined expression of Baga, equally enjoyable now but also promising for aging. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2019 Bairrada, Portugal
With recent changes, Luis now ferments the reds at a cooler range of 22-25 C. This new approach gives the wines a rounder feel. The wine exhibits good intensity, freshness, and firm tannins, supporting lively red fruit flavors with a hint of a waxy texture. Exceptionally fine quality. Rated 94/100.
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2018 Bairrada, Portugal
This vintage is marked by its juiciness and vibrancy, featuring bright cherry and plum notes with balanced acidity. The wine is notably fine and precise with a pleasing weight and sweet, pure fruit. Scored 93/100.
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 1990 Bairrada, Portugal
This slightly cloudy, deep yellow wine isn’t overly golden. It’s complex with aromas of toast, pear, nuts, and honey, complemented by hints of cream, spice, and vibrant citrus fruit. The finish is crystalline and fresh with spicy notes. Rated 95/100.
Luis Pato is arguably the most renowned figure in Bairrada, despite his tumultuous relationship with regional wine authorities. This situation once led him to eschew the Bairrada designation in favor of the broader Beiras appellation.
Pato is renowned for his modernist approach, yet his wine production seamlessly incorporates time-honored regional traditions. A significant aspect of producing distinctive wines from Baga, the area’s signature red grape, involves yield reduction. “Historically, Baga was overly productive and only yielded exceptional wines intermittently, about two out of every ten years,” he explains. “By reducing the yields, we now achieve high-quality wine eight out of ten years.” Pato also anticipates a promising future for the region’s sparkling wines.
In 1990, Luis pioneered the green harvest in the area. Initially, this practice alarmed his workers who thought, “He is mad, he opposes God.” Currently, Luis harvests Baga for sparkling wines about three weeks before he picks the same grape variety for red wine production from the same vineyard.
This presents an excellent opportunity to evaluate the latest wine releases and to reflect on the aging potential of these wines, both red and white. Additionally, there’s a chance to compare how different soil types—sandy versus chalk and clay—affect Baga grapes, especially through his Pe Franco wines made from ungrafted vines.
Luis Pato Vinha Pan Espumante 2015 Bairrada
This sparkling wine, crafted without any added sulfites, is composed of 100% Baga grapes grown in chalky/clay soils and is non-dosage. It features intense, citrusy notes with a sherbet-like zestiness, complemented by a lively palate and robust acidity. It boasts remarkable purity and vigor, with a slight saline finish. Rated 90/100.
Luis Pato Informal Baga de Vinha Pan Espumante 2013
This bubbly pink beverage is crafted from Baga grapes, offering a lively blend of raspberry, strawberry, and herbal flavors with a spicy zest and a robust fruity intensity. Rated 89/100.
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2016 Bairrada
A composite of 50% Bical from chalky/clay soils, 25% Sercial from sandy terrain, and 25% Sercialinho also from sandy soils, this wine is youthful yet intense, featuring crisp pear and citrus notes and a subtle pithy quality, all underpinned by vigorous acidity. Scored 92/100.
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2014 Bairrada
Vibrant and intense, this selection showcases crisp citrus flavors that intertwine with a mineral essence and a firm structure, delivering a dense mouthfeel coupled with a potent acid drive. Rated 92/100.
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2009 Bairrada
Consisting of Bical grapes from chalky clay and Sercial and Sercialino from sandy soils, this vintage is free from oak influences. It features nuances of melon and pear intertwined with a delicate toast and a gentle softness in the middle, offering a broad flavor profile with refined acidity. Scored 90/100.
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2007 Bairrada
Featuring a yellow/gold hue, this wine exudes energy with its spicy, citrusy profile complemented by toasty undertones. Notes of butterscotch intertwine with a vibrant, spicy acidity and crystalline fruit qualities. Exhibiting signs of evolution, it still maintains a refreshing edge. 90/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2004 Bairrada
This wine displays a deep yellow/gold shade and offers layers of toast, spice, and nuts along with crystalline citrus fruits that add depth and complexity. It possesses a good balance of weight and acidity, highlighted by savory nuances, and hints of singed lemon peel and marmalade. 92/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2001 Bairrada
Cultivated in sandy soils and fermented in new French oak, this vintage shows a nutty, oxidative character with a deep hue. Flavors of raisins and herbs are predominant, alongside notes of baked apple, indicating the fruit has matured past its prime. 85/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 2000 Bairrada
Characterized by a spicy and nutty profile, this wine reveals a notable depth and vivid citrus intensity, including tangerine and lemon nuances, with a hint of citrus pith beneath the fruits. Its vivacious, weighty nature and some developmental traits are matched with exquisite nutty/waxy details. 90/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 1998 Bairrada
Delightfully complex with flavors of nuts, spices, a hint of raisin, nectarines, marmalade, and lemons, this wine exhibits excellent acidity that supports its fruity layers. With age, it has developed a nuanced nutty character with a subtle touch of mushroom, making it quite captivating. Score: 92/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco 1991 Bairrada
This wine shows an orange color and comes from sandy soils, having fermented in new oak. It is robust and spicy with notes of marmalade, herbs, and apricot. The intensity is balanced by spicy citrus undercurrents. A wonderfully appealing and enduring wine. Score: 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2016 Bairrada
Made from Bical with 30% Sercial from chalky clay soil. The wine is vibrant and precise with a touch of pith. It brings forth powerful flavors of lemon, pear, and spice. Both juicy and sharply focused, making it delightful. Score: 92/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2010 Bairrada
Solely crafted from Bical grown in chalky/clay soils, this wine is fermented and aged in new French oak. It starts with a complex and slightly smoky, spicy, citrus fruit aroma. On the palate, it’s vivid and intense with citrusy notes coupled with a wonderful texture and weight. The wine impresses with its intense flavor, fine spicy complexity, and robust acidity. Truly excellent. Score: 94/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2008 Beiras
Displays vibrant, crystalline citrus aromas with a hint of spice. The palate is refreshing and robust, characterized by lemony zest and distinctive, spicy orange marmalade nuances. This wine is pithy, layered, and bursting with freshness and a crisp acidity. A delightful wine. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2004 Beiras
In a shade of yellow/gold, this wine offers multifaceted tones of smoky minerals and spicy lemon paired with pear fruit. Subtle apple notes and gentle toasty nuances are complemented by faint mushroomy elements. A delightful wine. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2003 Beiras
Pleasingly fresh despite the year’s warmth, this wine presents a pleasant acidity, with flavors of apple and spice mixed with bright citrus and pear. It features impressive concentration and depth, carried by a crisp acid core. Delightful. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 2001 Beiras
Rich and mature, this vintage shows nuances of raisins with hints of baked apple and a sweet touch of lemon curd. It possesses a charming, mature mellowness. 89/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 1999 Bairrada
Bold and intense, this wine features sweet apple and pear alongside distinct citrus and spice notes. There’s a developed richness reminiscent of apples, yet it retains a refreshing profile with nutty undertones and robust acidity. It’s quite appealing. 90/100
Luis Pato Vinha Formal 1998 Bairrada
The wine presents a full yellow hue. It offers a beautiful, creamy texture with smooth, slightly saline crystalline citrus fruits complemented by melon flavors along with nuances of nuts and toast. It’s finely crafted, showing remarkable depth and splendid aging. 93/100
A fascinating comparison between Baga grapes from ungrafted vines in two separate vineyards, 9 km apart, was conducted. The Valadas vineyard sits on chalky clay soil, whereas the straight Pé Franco vineyard features sandy soil. Baga grapes in sandy soils display increased acidity and tannin, requiring more maturation in new French oak, while those from chalky clay are smokier. Luis avoids overwhelming the latter with new oak, preferring used oak instead.
Luis Pato Pé Franco Valadas Vineyard 2015 Bairrada
This wine is supple, fresh, and detailed, exhibiting a delightful blend of raspberry and red cherry fruits. It’s marked by excellent acidity and a supple, elegant disposition. The tannins are beautifully integrated, enhancing the wine’s elegance and precision. 95/100
Luis Pato Pé Franco Quinta de Riberinho 2015 Bairrada
Complex with some sweet spicy oak hiding under sweet but fresh cherry and berry fruit. Ripe, intense and firm with grippy tannins. It still hasn’t integrated the oak. There’s lots of potential but it’s tannic now. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Barossa 2015 Bairrada
Very elegant, supple and fine. Sweet and juicy with lovely red cherry fruit and a bit of spice. There’s a silky texture with a bit of tannic grip, and smooth pure fruit. Very juicy and lively. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Tinto 1988 Bairrada
Earth, spice and tar and some grip. Earthy and intense with some tannins. Rasping, grippy and firm with nice fruit still. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 2015 Bairrada
Very floral and expressive with amazing cherry fruit aromas. The palate is so pretty and pure with red cherries and raspberries. Silky and expressive with nice purity. Has some stony spiciness under the fruit. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 1999 Bairrada
This vintage was challenging, yet the wine has matured gracefully, featuring earthy and spicy notes with substantial density. It presents a grippy yet refined structure, and is currently drinking wonderfully. 94/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 1997 Bairrada
A wine of high aromatic qualities, it develops a complex bouquet of leafy greens, spices, earth, and malty cherry fruits. The taste is harmonious and refined, characterized by smooth, sweet, subtly leafy earthy fruits. It’s highly enjoyable and should be consumed soon. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Barossa 1997 Bairrada
A lively and spicy wine with intense notes of raspberries and cherries, complemented by freshness. There are also flavors of earth and tar with a touch of plummy bitterness in the finish. It’s developed yet retains some grip and crisp edges. 93/100
Luis Pato Vinha Pan 1996 Bairrada
This wine is vivid and supple, boasting nice spice levels and finesse. It still maintains good structure, distinguished by fine spices and attractive fruit flavors. 93/100