English and Belgian Sparkling Wine: A Promising Future
A recent tasting of English and Belgian sparkling wines revealed an encouraging outlook for Northern European production, particularly highlighting Chardonnay as a standout varietal. This event, hosted by a panel that included Simon Field MW, Anthony Rose, and myself, involved a selection of wines nominated by their respective producers. While the English contingent presented a vibrant array, the participation from Belgian producers was limited, suggesting cautious optimism in drawing conclusions about Belgium’s potential.
The evolution of English sparkling wine began modestly in 1952 with Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones planting the first modern vineyard in Hampshire. Today, the industry has flourished, boasting 238 wineries and over 1,100 vineyards. Despite a 9% export share of production, the domestic market is marked by excitement, evidenced by a 510% increase in vineyard plantings since 2005, culminating in a total of 4,841 hectares (11,962 acres) by 2024.
Currently, sparkling wine constitutes about 70% of English wine production, reflecting a remarkable growth of 187% since 2018. The classic varieties dominate cultivation, with Chardonnay leading at 32%, followed by Pinot Noir and Meunier. Despite Brexit’s challenges and global economic uncertainties, the sector continues to forge ahead.
Pricing data shows that English sparkling wine occupies a premium segment, with an average bottle priced at £32.47, significantly higher than Prosecco or Cava but still below Champagne.
Climate remains a critical factor, with the Gulf Stream aiding conditions; however, rain can jeopardize grape quality. Most vineyards are concentrated in the southeastern regions of England—which enjoy favorable chalky soils—further enhancing their production capabilities.
In contrast to the UK’s nascent industry, Belgium mirrors its early development stages from three decades ago, with a current vineyard area of 695 hectares (1,717 acres). Sparkling wine now represents 45% of Belgium’s total production, and like the UK, relies heavily on the traditional Champagne grape varieties.
During the tasting—which featured 34 sparkling wines, predominantly from England—certain critiques arose regarding the tendency of some English wines to present overly high acidity. However, exceptional older vintages demonstrated that patience in aging could yield rewarding results.
Top entries from the tasting included:
- Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée 2016 – Noted for its complexity and balanced acidity.
- Wiston Estate Blanc de Blancs Library Collection Brut 2009 – Praised for its evolving character and rich texture.
- Breaky Bottom Seyval Blanc Brut Cuvée Koizumi Yakumo 2010 – Recognized for its remarkable youthfulness despite its age.
Both English and Belgian producers are beginning to tap into their unique terroirs, learning from a legacy of winemaking that can enhance the complexity and structure of their sparkling wines. With ongoing advancements and a projected increase in vineyard area, the future of sparkling wine in both regions looks bright, leaving room for both to chart their own paths in the greater global wine landscape.
Key Takeaways:
- English sparkling wine has gained significant traction with substantial domestic growth.
- Belgium is emerging as a serious competitor in sparkling production.
- A focus on temperature management and acidity will be crucial for the ongoing evolution of these wines.
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