The tasting of Iberian fortified wines, including Port, Sherry, Madeira, Montilla, and Carcavelos, reveals a rich and diverse category that is increasingly niche but steeped in history. Despite a general decline in the popularity of these wines, they maintain a unique and important status in the winemaking world.
Historically, fortified wines have their origins steeped in serendipity, with methods of production evolving over centuries. The history of fortified winemaking, notably in regions like Jerez and Madeira, illustrates a long-standing tradition that facilitated international trade long before the global wine market we recognize today.
While fortified wines have faced significant challenges, such as the devastating effects of oidium and phylloxera in the 19th century, they have shown resilience. The changing trends in consumer preferences have forced these wines to adapt, with innovative styles emerging over the decades. The introduction of late bottled vintage Port in the 1970s and the recent formalization of the 80-year-old Tawny Port category exemplify this adaptability.
The tasting panel, comprised of experts, explored a selection of these wines but acknowledged the complexity of evaluating a category that, while rich in history, is often seen as outdated. They aimed to emphasize quality over competition, recognizing the sheer diversity of styles and flavors within this underappreciated segment.
Among the top contenders from the tasting was Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny Port, celebrated for its rich complexity and depth, alongside other notable wines like Blandy’s 1994 Bual Medium Rich Madeira and González Byass’ Matusalem Oloroso Cream. Each wine offered its own unique expression, further highlighting the dynamic nature of Iberian fortified wines.
As the tasting concluded with no outright winners, a notable mention was made of the Quinta do Corrieira 2012 Carcavelos, reflecting a promising future for the category bolstered by dedicated producers. The group’s commitment to promoting these exceptional fortified wines suggests a bright outlook, as they continue to engage enthusiasts and wine drinkers alike.
For those interested in exploring these wines further, detailed tasting notes and scores, published alongside the tasting, are available for subscribers here.