Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles: Rising into the Premier League
After 18 years of deliberation, the Mâconnais villages of Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles have finally been granted accreditation for four premier crus by the INAO. These include Les Mûres in Loché and Les Quarts, Les Longeays, and Les Pétaux in Vinzelles. The inaugural vintage is set for 2024, making its market debut in 2026.
The push for this classification was driven by prominent organic producers Olivier Giroux of Domaine du Clos des Rocs and Jean-Philippe Bret of Domaine Soufrandière. Their commitment to quality entails no use of herbicides, with vineyards exclusively hand-harvested, emphasizing sustainability and environmental stewardship.
While the total surface area dedicated to these premier crus is small compared to Pouilly-Fuissé’s, both Loché and Vinzelles have distinct characteristics. Loché encompasses only 32ha, with 65% managed organically, while Vinzelles spans 52ha, with 45% organic. Each village is home to a limited number of domaines, with many small growers contributing to cooperative efforts.
The local cooperative, La Cave des Grands Crus Blancs, initially opposed the hand-harvesting and herbicide ban but failed to overturn the decision. They still accept grapes from those not adhering to the new guidelines, potentially compromising the quality of the premier cru classification. Giroux’s role as president of the growers’ syndicate involves monitoring vineyard practices to ensure compliance with the standards set for premier cru designation.
The ratification process for Les Mûres was particularly complex, initially assessed at 9ha before being reduced to 5ha after evaluation. Giroux contested this decision, successfully regaining 2ha based on the presence of calcareous clay. This careful consideration of terroir and historical usage was crucial in securing the premier cru status.
Les Quarts and Les Longeays, situated on favorable slopes, exhibit deeper clay profiles conducive to quality wine production. Bret, the major proprietor of Les Quarts, believes the delimitation of this premier cru extends too far down the slope, indicating the complexities of regulatory classifications and the subjective nature of terroir evaluations.
Despite benefitting from the promotion, Giroux highlights the importance of maintaining reasonable prices for consumers, aiming to avoid the pitfalls experienced by Pouilly-Fuissé. The recognition of Loché and Vinzelles as premier cru vineyards is seen as a significant win for the region and its commitment to high-quality wine production.