Jason Haas of Tablas Creek and Andrew Bayley, the General Manager of Beaucastel’s UK operation, recently hosted an insightful tasting that explored the partnership between the Rhône Valley and Paso Robles, California. This event was organized by The Wine Society, a retailer known for its close ties with both vineyards.
The story begins in 1967 when Robert Haas, a US importer, visited the storied cellars of Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. During a time when estate wines were scarce, Haas successfully persuaded the Perrin family to allow him to act as their US importer, marking the start of a long and successful partnership.
Jean-Pierre and François Perrin visited the US frequently to bolster their market presence, discovering that California had the potential to produce world-class wines, particularly in Rhône varieties. However, they noticed a lack of Rhône varietals being planted, as the focus was largely on Bordeaux reds, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel.
Motivated by these insights, the Perrins and Haas decided to join forces to establish a winery in California that would focus on Rhône varietals. After four years of searching for an appropriate site, they discovered Tablas Creek in 1989, situated at 1500 feet elevation, merely 10 miles from the Pacific coast, and characterized by its limestone soils.
To ensure the authenticity of their Rhône varietals, the team imported cuttings from Beaucastel, which required a three-year quarantine. They were limited to just six cuttings of each variety, meaning that the journey to planting was lengthy. The first vintage of Tablas Creek was not produced until 1997, about twelve years after they first began planning.
Jacques Perrin, a key figure in the partnership, was enthusiastic about reviving lesser-known Rhône varieties that had been lost to phylloxera. His efforts led to the revival of varieties like Mourvèdre, which had almost vanished due to its grafting difficulties. Tablas Creek has continued this commitment to viticultural diversity, even increasing the footprint of rare varietals like Picardin.
Tablas Creek now cultivates an array of grapes including Viognier and Marsanne—varieties traditionally permitted in Côtes du Rhône, though not in Châteauneuf. With 14 varieties sourced from Châteauneuf, they produce a range of wines, both single varietals and blends. Initially, they aimed for a predominance of red wines, but their focus has shifted to a more balanced 40% white wine production.
The tasting showcased several vintages from both Tablas Creek and Beaucastel. Highlights included:
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Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Blanc 2022: This blend features Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Picpoul among others, presenting a rich texture well-balanced with freshness and aging potential.
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Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas Rouge 2022: A complex blend featuring Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah, noted for its balance of fresh fruit and structural elegance.
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Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2022: Roussanne dominant, showcasing fine, crystalline citrus and honey hints, emphasizing the elegant craftsmanship of Beaucastel wines.
The longstanding heritage of Beaucastel, established in 1909 and maintained by the Perrin family for five generations, underscores their commitment to utilizing all thirteen permitted varietals for red Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines while also increasingly focusing on white varieties.
This tasting not only highlighted the wines’ complexities but also painted a vivid picture of a transatlantic partnership that has redefined the landscape of Rhône varietals in California, showcasing the blend of tradition and innovation in creating world-class wines.
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