I had the pleasure of meeting Filipa Pato and chef/sommelier William Wouters in Burgundy during a vertical tasting of Montrachet. It was there I was introduced to their bottle of Nossa Calcário, made from old-vine Baga. Captivated by its elegance and vibrancy, I made my way to Bairrada, Portugal to meet the group of producers known as the Baga Friends.
Established in 2012, these eight producers aim to revitalize Baga’s reputation, previously marred by over-cropping and poor winemaking techniques. The issues stemmed not from the grape itself but rather from practices leading to low-quality wines. Traditionally cultivated in small parcels primarily for home consumption, Baga struggled in Bairrada’s humid conditions, often producing less than desirable wines.
However, the various producers have adopted more stringent farming methods, including green harvesting and careful de-budding. They have demonstrated that Baga, which flourishes in Bairrada’s cooler climate and clay-limestone soils, can result in high-quality wines.
Many of the old vines, some predating the 1937 register, have been neglected due to low prices offered for their fruit. Filipa Pato and her peers are striving to save these vines, which offer a rich diversity of genetic material. With proper care, these ancient bush vines can produce wines with a complex profile, characterized by fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins that develop into layers of forest floor notes as they age.
The Baga Friends produce a wide array of styles, showcasing the versatility of Baga. Quinta das Bágeiras produces a firm Garrafeira, aged in large casks, while Sidónio de Sousa makes rich, full-bodied wines requiring time to mature. François Chasans is noted for using innovative techniques to maintain acidity and structure in his wines while maintaining a canonical approach reflecting the terroir.
Filipa Pato’s wines stand out for their precision and terroir expression, often showcasing remarkable food-pairing potential. Her practices include biodynamic farming, employing pigs to aerate the soil naturally. Others like Luis Gomes at Giz and Luis Patrão at Vadio share a commitment to preserving Bairrada’s biodiversity, employing unique methods to secure lower alcohol levels and enhance the grapes’ quality.
Lastly, Dirk Niepoort’s engagement with Baga led him to explore its potential deeper, producing balanced and refined wines that reflect both the grape and the region’s terroir. His approach is inspired by traditional techniques, aiming for wines that are both crisp and complex.
Overall, the revival of Baga wines in Bairrada embodies a collective effort by these passionate producers to reclaim the narrative of a grape that once was dismissed, revealing its true potential.