Tokaji is celebrated as one of the world’s premier sweet wines, and a recent masterclass in Budapest highlighted its rich history and unique characteristics, led by notable authorities László Mészáros of AXA-owned Disznókő and Dr. Péter Molnár of Patricius.
The Tokaj wine region spans 5,500 hectares but once held the potential for 11,000 hectares of vineyards prior to World War I, when Hungary was the fourth largest wine-producing country, boasting 500,000 hectares. Today, that figure has unfortunately dwindled to about 60,000 hectares.
Within Tokaji, 4,200 viticulturists cultivate an average vineyard plot size of just over a hectare, showcasing close to 500 different terroirs. Despite its fame for sweet wines, the region has shifted dramatically over recent decades, with 80% of current production being dry or less sweet.
The wine-making journey in Tokaji began 13 million years ago, with the discovery of a fossilized leaf of Vitis tokaiensis, suggesting a long-standing suitability for viticulture. Documents referencing local wine cellars date back to 1110. A significant historical turning point was the invasion by the Tatars in 1241, prompting the introduction of foreign ‘Vinitors’ to revive the region’s viticulture, which was later disrupted by the Turkish occupation in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The first mentions of the Furmint grape appeared in the 17th century, and by 1737, the Tokaji region was officially demarcated, predating the Douro demarcation by two decades. The distinctiveness of Tokaji lies in its volcanic soil enriched with minerals, coupled with a continental climate that benefits from the nearby rivers, creating optimal growing conditions for its unique wines.
Furmint dominates the vineyard landscape, constituting 60% of plantings. This local grape ripens late in the season, retaining acidity while encouraging the development of botrytis. Hárslevelű follows as the second most common grape, accounting for nearly 30% of plantings, prized for its aromatic qualities and good acidity.
Tokaji’s sweet wines come in various forms. While entry-level varieties, such as Edes and Feledes, are semi-sweet and less interesting, the prized Tokaji Aszú is crafted entirely from dried, botrytis-affected grapes, meticulously harvested. This labor-intensive process involves picking grapes individually, which shrivel to about one-fifth of their size, resulting in a uniquely flavored wine.
The production of Tokaji Aszú requires lengthy skin maceration, as pressing the grapes isn’t feasible due to their desiccated state. The berries are then stored until final processing, ultimately producing a wine with lower alcohol content and high sugar levels, balanced with natural acidity.
The class also showcased several Tokaji wines, highlighting their diverse profiles:
- Kardos Tündérmese Late Harvest 2024: Aromatic and balanced, with spicy apricot notes. (93/100)
- Barta Öreg Király Dulo Szaramodni 2021: Sweet, spicy, and intensely flavored with a long finish. (95/100)
- Disznoko Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2017: Rich and spicy, with exceptional concentration and a complex palate. (96/100)
- Patricius Tokaji 6 Puttonyos Aszú 2017: Honeyed richness with good acidity, providing a harmonious balance. (95/100)
- Lenkey Tokaji 6 Puttonyos Aszú 2003: A contemplative wine with savory edges and beautiful complexity. (96/100)
- Grand Tokaj Terroir Selection Tokaji Essencia 2013: Exceptionally sweet and concentrated, with remarkable complexity. (97/100)
Tokaji wines are not only an exploration of flavor but also a deep dive into the region’s rich viticultural history and unique terroirs, making it a captivating subject for wine enthusiasts.
For more details on Tokaji wines, visit Wineanorak.