The de Montille family, known for their heritage in Burgundy wine, is taking significant steps in Japan by establishing vineyards on Hokkaido, the nation’s northernmost island. Spurred by the family’s long-standing lineage in Volnay since the 1730s, their venture into Hokkaido marks the fusion of Burgundian expertise with Japan’s budding wine industry.
In 2016, under the leadership of Etienne de Montille, the family initiated two vineyard projects, one in California and the other in Hokkaido. This latter endeavor, the De Montille & Hokkaido project, is notable as one of the first foreign investments in Japanese winemaking. This move has been perceived as a key endorsement for Japanese wines, further integrating the country into the global fine-wine dialogue.
Contrary to its reputation predominantly as a skiing and dairy destination, Hokkaido is emerging as a potential wine region. The climate, especially in the southern part where the vineyards are established, offers suitable conditions for the cultivation of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which thrive even as winters can be brutally cold. The geographical benefits granted by proximity to the sea help mitigate risks such as late spring frosts, making this locale surprisingly conducive to fine winemaking.
Currently, the de Montille team focuses solely on these two grape varieties without plans for introducing or experimenting with crossbreeding. They utilize snow as an insulating layer to protect vines from low temperatures, similar to how igloos serve as shelters for humans in winter. Despite the different environmental challenges compared to Burgundy—where warmer Atlantic influences prevail—the goal is to create innovative and distinct wines that carry a unique Japanese identity rather than mere replicas of Burgundian styles.
With their first harvest not occurring until 2023, the potential of the de Montille x Hokkaido project is still unfolding. Nevertheless, as climate change alters agricultural viability, it is anticipated that more fine-wine producers will look to this northern region, following the path laid out by the de Montille family’s pioneering work.