A recent masterclass in London featured Olivier Collin, showcasing his wines from Ulysse Collin. This was only the second time Collin presented his work in the UK, hosted at Noble Rot with an audience of sommeliers representing 23 Michelin stars. He emphasized the importance of the “gastronomic channel” for his limited production wines.
Collin shared his journey, returning to his family estate in Congy after studying law. He established his Champagne house to create wines akin to those from Burgundy. Initially, he focused on the Les Pierrières vineyard for his first vintage in 2004. He sought to revolutionize winemaking practices by improving vine cultivation and opting for natural fermentation in wood barrels.
His farming philosophy revolves around teamwork and medium yields, aiming for natural concentration. Collin explained, “We never look for overripeness; we just look for ripeness.” He carefully selects the best grapes from his 8.7 hectares of vines, producing only from 6 hectares and selling the remainder for financial stability.
Collin’s winemaking approach is characterized by a desire for “evolution without oxidation.” His wines undergo extended aging—both in casks and on lees—while ensuring low dosage levels maintain an extra-brut style. He builds his wine portfolio carefully, starting with Les Pierrières and gradually introducing other cuvées over the years.
The tasting revealed Collin’s wines possess a unique, delicate mousse, served intentionally at warmer temperatures to enhance aroma and balance acidity. The event highlighted his pursuit of developing individual and authentic wines, akin to Ulysses’ journey, as he sought to revive recognition for the Petit Morin valley’s potential.
Among the wines presented was Les Pierrières Blanc de Blancs—a signature wine with a cool vineyard site, known for its complex flavor profile and refreshingly peppery notes. Other wines included Les Maillons, noted for its concentration and smooth texture, and the more elusive Les Enfers and Les Roises, both offering distinct character and limited production.
Collin’s commitment to winemaking is evident in his meticulous approach, ensuring each bottle reflects both the terroir and the artistry of his craft. His journey continues to captivate those who appreciate the depths of fine Champagne, making each release a testament to passionate craftsmanship.