This narrative explores the two distinct vineyards on the Twenty Mile Bench in Canada’s Niagara Peninsula: Foxcroft and Wingfield. Renowned for producing exciting Chardonnay, these vineyards tell a compelling story of terroir and viniculture.
During my initial visit to Canada in 2022, I was captivated by the evolving narrative of terroir across the Niagara Peninsula, particularly at the Twenty Mile Bench where the limestone slopes bear resemblance to Burgundy’s, albeit facing northward, with the moderating influence of Lake Ontario.
Foxcroft Vineyard grabbed my attention with its Chardonnay, characterized by a distinctive density and rich minerality that ends with a savory oyster-shell finish. The wines from Foxcroft reflect a full-bodied richness that balances with elegance, though care is needed to avoid over-ripening.
The Wismer family, principal growers in Niagara with seven farms and 300 acres, play a significant role in this story. They transitioned into grape production as the local fruit market faltered in the early 1990s, beginning with guidance from experienced cool-climate viticulturists. The current overseer, Craig Wismer, sells the vineyard’s fruit to around 70 producers, aiming for high-quality, terroir-driven wines.
In my latest visit, I wanted to delve deeper into the specific terroir of Foxcroft. The chance to taste wines from several winemakers at once provided insights into whether Foxcroft possesses a recognizable vineyard expression.
In addition to Foxcroft, Wingfield Vineyard, located just south of Foxcroft and higher in elevation, promised an intriguing contrast. Wingfield’s wines tend to be more delicate and citrusy, showcasing a sharper mineral thread.
Craig Wismer’s expertise in managing the vineyards is evident as he passionately discussed the unique expressions from each vineyard. This hands-on approach fosters a focus on quality over quantity, enabling the vineyard to be a leading source of premium fruit.
As I walked through both vineyards with fellow winemakers, we explored the soil differences and how they influence the grapes. The winemaking techniques vary; some producers classify their grapes based on vineyard sections, ensuring the best fruit is showcased in their final wines.
Foxcroft is an 45-acre site, with optimal growing conditions due to its elevation and soil composition, primarily dolomitic limestone. Chardonnay planted here thrives thanks to meticulous vineyard management techniques that have been refined over time.
Wingfield, on the other hand, struggles for ripening due to its cooler microclimate and distinct shading from trees. Its Chardonnay tends to ripen later compared to Foxcroft, producing leaner and more precise wines that shine in certain vintages, particularly in favorable weather conditions.
It is clear that both vineyards offer unique yet complementary expressions of Chardonnay, each with its own character shaped by terroir. The journey through Foxcroft and Wingfield illustrates not only the potential of the Niagara region but also the complex interplay of geography, climate, and winemaking practices that craft each bottle of wine.
In essence, the ongoing exploration and understanding of these vineyards signify the growth of Canadian winemaking and highlight the importance of terroir in creating exceptional wines.