Adjusting Aesthetic Horizons from the Champaigns of Jerez
The evolution of wine in the Jerez region is witnessing a remarkable transformation, particularly highlighted by the 2020 Annius Atlántida Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz. This red wine has emerged from a new wave of innovative practices in Jerez and offers a striking departure from the traditional white wines typically associated with the area.
The landscape between Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlúcar de Barrameda is characterized by brilliant white soils under an expansive indigo sky, an environment that once thrived with various crops, particularly vineyards. However, modern agricultural practices are now reshaping land use, prioritizing energy production over traditional wine-growing. The vineyard area has dramatically decreased from 22,500 hectares in 1978 to just 6,700 hectares today, presenting both challenges and opportunities.
Alberto Orte, co-owner of the New York-based wine importer Olé & Obrigado, is a key figure in this change. He has personally replanted 26 forgotten grape varieties in his 24 hectares of vineyards in Añina, drawing inspiration from historical texts on grape varieties in Andalucía. His efforts have led to the revival of local grape types that had all but vanished and the creation of a remarkable red wine from a blend that includes Tintilla, Vigiriega Negra and Blanca, and Palomino Negro, among others.
The 2020 Annius Atlántida is particularly compelling, characterized by an intricate palate that combines youthful energy with complexity. In contrast to the typical dry red wines found elsewhere in Spain, wines from Jerez, particularly those crafted by Orte, maintain a juicy and vibrant quality. His wines express a harmony of flavors, with the Atlántida showcasing a blend of deep, rich characteristics that reflect the region’s unique terroir.
Orte’s work goes beyond merely producing wine. He aims to capture the essence of Jerez’s ancient vineyards, some of which date back nearly 3,000 years. The area has a rich viticultural heritage, transitioning through various civilizations from the Phoenicians to the Romans, which underpins the depth of flavor found in contemporary wines.
Today, Jerez is not just reimagining its historic roles in the wine world; it is forging a new identity. The Atlántida Annius exemplifies this shift, offering a delicious exploration of both the old and the new. While Orte also operates Bodegas Poniente, noted for its refined Sherries, it is the red wines that are currently capturing attention and redefining what Jerez can offer to the global wine stage.