The lush region of northwestern Portugal, once largely recognized for its inexpensive, fizzy white wines, has undergone a remarkable transformation, establishing itself as one of Europe’s most dynamic wine regions, according to Sarah Ahmed.
By Sarah Ahmed
It may seem contradictory to say that now is the perfect time to explore Vinho Verde. This northwesternmost DOC of Portugal, known for its heavy rainfall, has its name associated with the idea of wine (vinho) being green (verde), implying that it is unripe. Additionally, a stereotype persists, suggesting that the bulk of Vinho Verde DOC’s production—around 80%—comprises “classic” white commodity wines, known for their low alcohol content, added carbonation, and residual sugar. However, I intend to dispel these misconceptions right away. Vinho Verde is home to some of the finest white wines in Portugal, as well as stylish light reds. There. I’ve stated it. Now, let me explain why.
True to its name, Vinho Verde is a lush area, dotted with smallholdings and characterized by high-trained vines that historically marked the borders around fields or provided shade over pathways and drives. The fertile land was once primarily used for cereal crops, which limited grape cultivation to the margins. “In the past, most of our best plots used to grow corn,” remarked João Camizão Rocha of Sem Igual in Sousa. He believed that their family vineyards “were maybe a diamond to be polished,” and it turned out he was right. These high-trained, high-yielding traditional bordadura and ramada vines shaped the reputation of Vinho Verde for producing low-alcohol, high-acid wines, much of which was traditionally made for local and home consumption. They continue to be part of the landscape, visible from the A3 motorway during the drive from Oporto to the Portugal–Spain border along the Minho River, which forms the northern boundary of Vinho Verde.
Stretching alongside the Atlantic Ocean, which defines the western edge of Vinho Verde, a 75-mile (120km) motorway winds through river valleys that act as channels for the ocean’s cool mist and breezes. As one moves inland, the maritime effect starts to fade, particularly as one ascends into the eastern mountains of Vinho Verde. These mountains create rain shadows, which influence the neighboring Douro and Trás-os-Montes regions, known for their focus on Port and red wines. To the south, Vinho Verde borders Bairrada and Dão. Like Dão, Vinho Verde primarily features granitic, well-drained soils, which is advantageous given the area’s abundant rainfall, complemented by two bands of schist that offer a unique distinction.
The significant potential of this expansive region, with its diverse microclimates and a variety of 45 grape types, set the stage for an evolution in Vinho Verde DOC, coinciding with the technological advancement in the Portuguese wine sector that began in the 1970s and 1980s. This era witnessed substantial investment in modern cordon and vertical shoot positioning (VSP) training systems, leading to vineyards that were much more focused on vine cultivation and professional grape-growing practices. “When we shifted from ramadas to being able to plant in fields, we could optimize the production of dry wines, decide where to plant, which varieties to select, and implement cordon systems, now VSP,” stated António Vinagre from Quinta do Tamariz, a quality-oriented producer in Cávado.
Modern vinification facilities equipped with pneumatic presses and temperature-controlled stainless-steel fermentation vessels facilitated Vinho Verde’s rapid shift from a focus on red wines to predominantly white production. However, diverging from the low-alcohol, high-acid wines that have come to epitomize Vinho Verde has been more challenging. Vinagre reflected, “Thirty-five years ago, when we decided to eliminate carbonation and produce dry wines, there was no demand for Vinho Verde without fizz.” Summarizing the historical context, Anselmo Mendes remarked, “[T]he region kept innovating in enology and viticulture, yet always felt the constraints of tradition, akin to having a speed limiter.”
Such is not the case for the winemaker fondly dubbed Senhor Alvarinho, who stands as a prominent force for transformation within the realm of Vinho Verde. Along with fellow visionaries like the Cerdeira family from Soalheiro, Quinta do Ameal, established by Pedro Araújo, and Vasco Croft from Aphros, Mendes has dedicated the past two to three decades to unveiling a different narrative of Vinho Verde. Their collective ambition and unwavering commitment to grape cultivation are evident, especially as they champion organic and biodynamic practices in a region typically marked by high rainfall, including pioneers like Quinta da Palmirinha, Aphros, Soalheiro, Covela, and A & D Wines.
Moving away from the reliance on gas and residual sugar, the new-generation Vinho Verde producers prioritize lower yields and well-timed harvests, resulting in naturally dry wines devoid of gas. Primarily, the finest wines emerge from the efforts of grape growers who transition into vignerons, or from projects led by skilled winemakers that focus on varietal and/or single sub-region wines. In sharp contrast, larger brands of classic Vinho Verde, such as Casal Garcia (Aveleda) and Gazela (Sogrape), utilize widely sourced grapes, as mass blending of varieties and vintages has been the cornerstone of their volume production, consistency, and commercial success.
Fortuitously for Mendes, he hails from Monção, a region with optimal conditions for cultivating new-wave Vinho Verde. Meanwhile, the Cerdeira family planted the inaugural continuous Alvarinho vineyard in 1974 in the nearby Melgaço area located in the hillier east. Together, Monção and Melgaço constitute one of Vinho Verde’s nine sub-regions, representing 1,821 hectares of the region’s total vineyard area of 17,000 hectares. This area is responsible for 59% of the total Alvarinho plantings within Vinho Verde DOC, thus notably contributing to the region’s critical acclaim for promoting the white grape variety known as Albariño in Rías Baixas, which lies just over the border in Spain.
Situated inland in Vinho Verde’s mountainous northeastern corner, this sub-region benefits from a unique geographic advantage due to the western mountain ranges that offer some protection from Atlantic weather influences. With a harmonious blend of maritime and continental climates, Monção e Melgaço experiences hotter and drier summers. Thanks to its intricate network of rivers and elevated terrains to the east, evenings are refreshingly cool, allowing Alvarinho to achieve full ripeness while preserving the signature fresh acidity and aromatic expression associated with Vinho Verde. In comparison to most Rías Baixas, which are derived from the Atlantic-facing sub-region of Val do Salnes, Luis Cerdeira notes, “Our terroir yields wines that are more fruity and fresh.” And indeed, it can and does offer so much more.
Since Soalheiro introduced its inaugural Alvarinho in 1982 and Mendes established his own label in 1998, the region of Monção e Melgaço has developed a robust community of around 60 Alvarinho experts who possess a deep understanding of the grape and its unique terroir. The expanding selections available, along with my tasting reflections, illustrate the subtleties related to the vineyard’s aspect, elevation, and soil composition. As Miguel Queimado of Vale das Ares articulates, “I have one grape. If I want different styles, I need to individuate,” a process he prefers to undertake in the vineyard. His most vibrant and well-structured wine, which is aged in oak, originates from a vineyard that faces north, whereas his entry-level Alvarinho is primarily harvested from a lower, west-facing site that yields fruitier wines with higher alcohol content.
Soalheiro boasts 15ha of estate vines alongside a diverse network of approximately 180 growers managing around 80ha. Focusing on soil types, Cerdeira, who crafted wines for three decades before launching his own venture in 2024 with his son, distinguishes between valley vineyards located below 200 meters and those found on mountain slopes at altitudes ranging from 200 to 400 meters. He notes that valley soils are more fertile and rich in organic material, resulting in higher nitrogen levels that contribute to the development of aromatic wines. Conversely, the elevated vineyards, characterized by stonier and less fertile soils, produce wines that are more reductive and feature a stronger mineral profile with noticeable salinity. These higher elevations also preserve more acidity. Soalheiro has even ventured to plant a new vineyard at an altitude of 1,100 meters on schist, which, according to Queimado, is less prone to hydric stress compared to granite. Additionally, his newest vineyard at 300 meters is also set on schist.
Alvarinho in various expressions
In Monção e Melgaço, Alvarinho is produced in an array of styles, including still, espumante (traditional method sparkling), and sweet wines. Each style showcases the versatility of this exquisite grape through diverse flavor profiles. Vinification methods vary, utilizing stainless steel, cement, concrete, clay, or wood, which may include French oak or Portuguese chestnut. Some wines are made through natural fermentation and, in the case of those labeled curtimenta, they undergo skin fermentation, which Mendes notes enhances both the structure and floral bouquet of the variety: “It makes perfect sense, when Alvarinho is high in polyphenols,” he explains, referencing the grape’s significant skin and seed ratio compared to its juice. Aging on the lees, both with and without bâtonnage, has become a common practice, as has the use of oak for premium cuvées, with modern techniques showing a greater respect for the grape and its terroir. Although malolactic fermentation is rare, it is being incorporated into early-picked wines to enrich mouthfeel and texture, effectively balancing higher acidity levels. Further innovating in the field, Márcio Lopes, a disciple of Mendes, describes the Pequenos Rebentos Viagem Ao Principio do Mundo Alvarinho as “perhaps the most challenging wine we have ever made.” This wine undergoes a month-long skin fermentation, followed by aging in a Sherry barrel under flor. Embracing the evolving philosophy of a new generation of winemakers, he proudly states, “We make wines to open markets, not simply to cater to market demands.”
With an abundance of creativity flowing in Monção e Melgaço, the remarkable variety of Alvarinho wines stands in stark contrast to the uniformity of Vinho Verde’s mass-produced brands. Their ability to age and pair with food is equally impressive. Rich in polyphenols, Alvarinho demonstrates a strong resistance to oxidation. Even the basic Alvarinho offerings from Monção e Melgaço are known to age gracefully, with the finest examples developing greater complexity and texture over a decade or two. Emanuel Pesqueira, the Group Head of Wine for Gordon Ramsay, expressed his disappointment at having sold out of Gran Vicious Alvarinho 2020—a rare limited edition priced at €275 per bottle—believing it would have matured beautifully, akin to a fine, aged Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner from Wachau.
Despite being situated just south of Monção e Melgaço, the terroir of the Lima sub-region is quite distinct, marked by its low-lying vineyards that stretch from the Atlantic to the rugged eastern border near Trás-os-Montes. The River Lima bisects this region, and the Atlantic’s influence is pronounced, which may explain why it experiences the highest rainfall levels in Vinho Verde. Although Loureiro grapes are highly productive, they have the potential to reach the same elevated levels as Monção e Melgaço’s finest Alvarinhos under ideal conditions, while maintaining a finesse that Croft eloquently describes as “filigree.” Unfortunately, Lima lacks the concentration of ambitious producers found in Monção e Melgaço.
When Pedro Araújo first crafted Quinta do Ameal Loureiro in 1999, no one had yet recognized Loureiro’s quality potential. The elegantly structured, precise, and mineral wines he produced with guidance from Mendes aged superbly. During a vertical tasting held in 2021, the entry-level 2003 Loureiro’s exotic floral aromas and nuanced spice reminded me of a noble, aged Gewurztraminer from Alsace. Yet, true to the Vinho Verde character, it retained an invigorating energy and tension, buoyed by its firm acidity. Mendes noted, “While Loureiro is more aromatic and Alvarinho offers more body, Loureiro’s acidity is more lively, allowing for equal aging potential in the bottle—up to 25 years.” Further illustrating this point, Lopes remarked, “Loureiro can achieve 12% alcohol with a pH below 3.”
To achieve the right balance of acidity, the fruit must be harvested at optimal ripeness; hence, Araújo employs stringent canopy and yield management practices. José Luis Moreira da Silva, who began overseeing winemaking in 2019 following the Roquette family’s acquisition of Ameal, suggests that Ameal is in a prime location. Situated about 30km from the Atlantic, east of Ponte de Lima, the ocean’s presence is evident in the wines’ acidity levels. However, due to Ponte de Lima’s continental climate—which results in warmer days and cooler nights—the wines benefit from balance. According to the winemaker, this environment allows full maturation and ripeness to be achieved. The sunny, south-facing bank along the Lima River further enhances this advantageous setting.
Ameal has segmented the estate into six plots, categorized by two distinct soil types, with transitional areas in between. Along the River Lima, the fertile alluvial soils over clay are relatively fine-textured and excel in retaining moisture and water. These fragments deliver the lively and aromatic Loureiro, a fresh entry point. Just 30 meters higher, the sandy loam lacks clay and is coarser, featuring harder colluvial materials such as quartz, mica, and feldspar. These well-drained yet less fertile vines yield concentrated wines that possess greater body and structure, exemplified by the oaked Escolha. Ameal Solo Único originates from a transitional plot that produces wines with intense character and notable freshness.
Aphros, situated east of Ponte de Lima, showcases Vasco Croft’s innovative approach to viticulture and winemaking. He cultivates his vineyards using biodynamic methods and practices minimal intervention during wine production. The Phaunus label from Aphros is crafted in Croft’s “medieval cellar,” where all processes are manual and devoid of electricity. “It was challenging to overcome the misconceptions ingrained in the local wine culture,” Croft remarked. Like many in his field, he inherited a farm that sold grapes at unsustainable prices to co-operatives and negociants. A favorite in the natural wine movement, he noted, “I arrived like an outsider with fresh perspectives and the liberty to experiment. I never imagined this level of interest would arise.” The eclectic selections from Aphros include unoaked Loureiro, Loureiro produced with both pre-fermentation and post-fermentation skin contact, crafted in various containers like chestnut and oak barrels, along with clay, sparkling, still, and orange wines. Coming from a design background, Croft described his approach: “When I envision a chair, I consider how to create variations of the same idea… My foundational Loureiro embodies brightness, freshness, and youthful vigor, but it can be adjusted like a melody—let’s showcase the flute and saxophone—its pitch can vary in height or depth.”
Selective winemakers and micro-negociants have pinpointed optimal locations elsewhere. Lopes’s mineral-rich, old-vine Loureiro is harvested from a vineyard located well south of Ponte de Lima, in Braga. This wine is off-dry, floral, and mineral, echoing aspects of German Riesling. Portugal Boutique Winery Gorro benefits from the relatively cool, humid microclimate found just 5 kilometers from the ocean, west of Ponte de Lima. Here, site selection plays a critical role; Ricardo Sarrazola explained that blending two Loureiro vineyards was essential to achieve the crisp, zesty notes typical of pebbly soils while also adding the structured, complex profile derived from rare schist and clay slopes.
In Baião, adjacent to the Douro, where Covela and A & D have made significant strides, the warm, dry environment allows its main varietal, Avesso, to achieve full ripeness while maintaining good acidity. Other sub-regions have yet to ride the wave of success associated with varietal or sub-regional identification. However, premium wines are unmistakably compelling. At £100 per bottle, World Wild Wines Imperfeito 2018 epitomizes this, expertly sourced from over ten different vineyards averaging 45 years of age, primarily found in Baião. Carlos Raposo masterfully blended Avesso (to add body and a hint of bitterness), Loureiro (known for its complex aromas), and Arinto (contributing freshness and definition). The winemaker selectively harvested from certain vineyards, taking as little as 500 kilograms or even less on occasion. “It’s all about the art of blending; think of it like seasoning—salt and pepper,” explained Dirk Niepoort’s former associate, who drew inspiration from Domaine Raveneau Chablis.
Generally speaking, vineyards located in the eastern areas—which encompass all of Basto, Amarante, and parts of Cávado and Ave—tend to yield riper wine styles characterized by greater structure, body, and intensity. This is often due to factors such as a notable degree of continentality, less fertile soils, and at times, higher elevation. According to Mendes, grape varieties like Arinto, Azal, and Alvarinho in the Basto and Amarante sub-regions showcase significant potential. Throughout the Vinho Verde DOC, there is a burgeoning presence of high-quality wines, driven by pockets of ambition. Given space limitations, my tasting notes predominantly highlight the most distinguished wines, primarily from Monção e Melgaço, followed by the Lima region.
Most of the ambitions have been centered around white wines; however, a rising interest in light reds has revitalized the category of red Vinho Verde. Croft has been at the forefront of this quality-driven resurgence. “Rather than the traditional, rustic, bold profiles, we aim for elegance and lightness,” he noted. Initially, he worked with Vinhão, which is known for its dark, sometimes unruly character—high in acidity and tannins, he terms it as “more irreverent and intense.” Recently, he has been drawn to Alvarelhão, describing it as “supremely light and ethereal.” The low-extraction method of whole-bunch fermentation and subsequent maceration yields Pinot Noir-like notes in Aphros’s Ouranus. Croft has increased his plantings, and at Quinta de Santiago, Joana Santiago has transitioned all her red grape varieties to Alvarelhão.
In Monção e Melgaço, emerging winemakers Lopes and Constantino Ramos, who is also a protégé of Mendes, have utilized old field-blend vineyards to craft aromatic, mineral-laden, light reds. In the case of Ramos’ Juca, from a centennial vineyard at 400m (1,300ft), the result is a deep, inky unoaked red. During his research into this category, Ramos uncovered that the sub-region has a rich history of red wine production. Charles Sellers noted that “it was, however, from Vianna do Castello that the first shipments of Portugal’s red wines were made, when a company existed at Monção (the Vinho Verde sub-region of Monção e Melgaço) to regulate export. The wines of Monção and Vianna [in Lima] are, when properly managed, very similar to those of Burgundy.”
Today, Portuguese white wines are receiving acclaim on a global scale, largely due to the pioneering efforts of top Vinho Verde wines. Their age-worthiness, complexity, and finesse have defied regional clichés and inspired others to replicate this success, leading to significant investments. The momentum behind Alvarinho, in particular, has accelerated since 2021, when varietal Alvarinhos from any Vinho Verde sub-region (not solely Monção e Melgaço) became eligible for the DOC Vinho Verde label (previously, they could only be designated as Minho VR).
Vinho Verde’s rising prestige is highlighted by the fact that prominent producers like Aveleda and Sogrape are now creating premium wines using the Alvarinho and Loureiro varieties. They blend these grapes to craft flagship wines sourced from their own vineyards in Cávado, along with Aveleda’s newly established vineyard north of Ponte de Lima. Wine producers have been particularly impressed by rare plots of Alvarinho grown on schist soil. Diogo Sepúlveda noted that, despite Quinta de Azvedo’s proximity to the ocean, “We can get riper fruit because schist soils are warmer, so we start picking Alvarinho at the end of August.” Diogo Campilo from Aveleda describes Alvarinho cultivated in schist as “austere with outstanding aging potential” due to its acidity, adding that it possesses a “mineral, citrus, and elegant” character.
Following the trend, after Esporão’s acquisition of Ameal, several notable names from outside the Vinho Verde region have entered the fray, including two renowned Port producers. In 2022, the Symington family purchased an estate in Monção and partnered with Mendes. Furthermore, The Fladgate Partnership took over Ideal Drinks in 2023, which boasts an ambitious lineup of age-worthy, premium Vinho Verdes sourced from Quinta da Pedra and Quinta de Milagres (Monção Alvarinhos) and Paço de Palmeira (Loureiro from the Cávado sub-region).
Mendes is optimistic about Vinho Verde’s evolution, asserting that the region is strategically positioned to take advantage of climate change, particularly as traditional regions like Burgundy may become cost-prohibitive. He remarked, “New producers, winemakers, and viticulturists have clear objectives—they are very focused—and the Symingtons, Esporão, and other major companies play a vital role in the region’s development and our next objective: enhancing Vinho Verde’s reputation and distribution.” While there’s considerable discussion regarding the potential implementation of new labels or regulations to distinguish premium wines from traditional Vinho Verde, there is no denying Vinho Verde’s capacity to produce wines of exceptional quality and finesse.
Notes
1. Amândio Jorge Morais Barros and Nuno Pizarro de C Magalhães, Francisco Girão 1904–1973: An Innovator in Vitiviniculture in the North of Portugal 2 vols (Fundação Francisco Girão; 2011), Vol. 2, p. 88.
2. Charles Sellers, Oporto, Old & New: Being a Historical Record of the Port Wine Trade and Tribute to British Commercial Enterprize in the North of Portugal (Herbert E Harper; London, 1899), p. 19.
Coming Up: Sarah Ahmed shares her top picks for new-wave Vinho Verde wines.