Vintage Port represents the highest achievement of the Douro region. Crafted from the finest vineyards during exceptional years, this wine undergoes two years of aging in casks before being bottled, destined to mature quietly for an extended period until it reaches its peak. While young Vintage Ports can be appreciated for their vibrant fruitiness and robust structure, the true allure of these wines lies in their transformation during a challenging adolescence, leading to a breathtaking phase of smooth maturity and sophistication that can be enjoyed for many years.
The Symington family stands out as one of the premier Port producers – many would argue they are the foremost producer in the region, owning several elite quintas and renowned Port brands. Not long ago, they organized an exclusive event dedicated solely to Vintage Port, showcasing a selection of remarkable bottles.
Historically, vintages were announced roughly three times every ten years. During years when no declarations were made, Single Quinta Vintage Ports would be available at about half the cost of the declared Vintage Ports. Currently, we see the introduction of a new category within Vintage Ports known as micro terroir Vintage Port, which introduces another dimension to the classification and a new pricing structure.
Here are my tasting notes for the Ports I sampled.
The year 2022 proved to be remarkable, marked by an almost complete absence of rainfall during the growing season following an exceptionally dry winter. “I can’t recall experiencing a year like 2022,” states Charles Symington. The summer was extremely hot, with Pinhão in the Cima Corgo region of the Douro reaching sweltering temperatures of 47°C in July—a record high for Portugal. By that point, there had only been 150 ml of rainfall since the previous November. “The conditions were rather alarming for us,” Charles reflects, “yet we are accustomed to extreme circumstances in the Douro.” By the end of August, they accumulated just 155 mm of rain. “It was a very challenging vintage, and we had to adjust to the situation.” Harvesting began unusually early on August 22nd, a stark contrast to the typical October timeframe. “One of the admirable aspects of 2022 is that it showcased the vineyard’s resilience,” he continues. “It is a vintage of high quality accompanied by a satisfactory yield.” They typically harvest 1.1 kg per vine, but this year yielded only 900 g.
This vintage unfolded in two segments. Harvesting was carried out slowly with their in-house team until September 5th, when they learned of Hurricane Daniella approaching, bringing rain from the southwest. Consequently, they paused the harvest for a period of 10 days before resuming.
Dow’s Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port 2022
This estate is situated in the Douro Superior, a hot region facing east and rising to an elevation of 420 meters. It encompasses 25 hectares of vines, primarily consisting of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. The wine presents aromatic and floral notes alongside black cherry and blackberry fruit. It is well-structured with a pleasing weight on the palate, exhibiting an incredibly sweet fruitiness and good concentration. The finish is pure, fresh, and intense, with a refreshing quality and some saline characteristics. 94/100
Graham’s Quinta do Tua Vinhas Velhas Vintage Port 2022
This marks the inaugural release of this Vintage Port, sourced from one of Graham’s four estates, which has consistently played a significant role in their Vintage Port since the family acquired the estate in 2006. The wine is derived from mixed varietal plantings that are over 50 years old. It features a floral, compact black cherry fruit aroma complemented by a richness of blackcurrant. On the palate, it is powerful, rich, and complex, showcasing flavors of blackcurrants, cherries, strawberries, and fine spices, along with hints of dried herbs, salt, olives, and seaweed. This wine boasts freshness, complexity, and impressive length. 97/100
Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2022
This estate, located across the river from Senhora da Ribeira, was acquired in 1989 and is the largest of the Symington properties. The vineyards, which face north, are situated at elevations ranging from 100 to 500 meters, and all grapes are foot-trodden in traditional lagares. Only 4% of the production in 2022 has been bottled as Vintage Port. The wine is concentrated and powerful, featuring lush flavors of sweet blackberries and black cherries. It exhibits a delightful fruit sweetness complemented by a salty note and impressive concentration. The profile is pure, intense, and offers good depth, balanced acidity, and a slight grainy structure. Score: 95/100
Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2022
Capela represents a selection from Vesúvio, crafted from three unique micro-terroirs that were co-fermented this year. Since 2007, Capela has been processed in smaller lagares, with each traditional one divided into two. The wine is highly aromatic, showcasing sweet black cherry and blackberry characteristics. There is remarkable depth with significant concentration on the palate, alongside lovely purity and real complexity, enriched with hints of olives, spice, dried herbs, and liquorice. An exceptional young Port. Score: 97/100
Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2017
Despite a particularly dry year in the Douro, this turned out to be a stunning vintage for Port. There’s a beautiful harmony with sweet, rounded elements, revealing good concentration and a mellow texture. Flavors of dried herbs and mint contribute to smoothness, leading to a long and sweet finish with notes of blackberry and cherry, alongside a subtle hint of jam. This wine is suitable for mid-term aging. Score: 95/100
Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2016
This vintage marked the first declaration since 2011. Following a wet winter, the growing season began damply before transitioning into a long, hot summer. The nose is complex, revealing blackcurrant, eucalyptus, and dried herbs. On the palate, it is well-structured with a touch of firmness. Mint, lavender, and thyme add layers of interest, while the wine retains some desirable firmness, indicating great potential for long-term aging. Score: 97/100
Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2011
This wine marks the first use of Alicante Bouschet in a co-fermentation process. The 2011 vintage is hailed as one of the finest in recent years, showcasing remarkable concentration. It presents a structure enhanced by a spicy, peppery note alongside sweet blackberries and black cherries, complemented by hints of dried herbs and a touch of eucalypt. The density and structure of this vintage, combined with its beautiful fruit and alluring purity, offer a refreshing quality. Its potential for the future is significant, making it a truly beautiful wine. 98/100
Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port 2007
This vintage is characterized by its boldness. Charles conducted an experiment by allowing the wine to remain on the skins for an extended duration, resulting in a drier profile. The outcome is a sweetly aromatic wine with undertones of aged notes, ash, sweet black cherries, and blackberries, alongside nuances of liquorice, iodine, and mint. The palate reveals a hint of Fernet Branca with mint, cola, black cherries, and blackberries, providing freshness and intensity. The wine is both complex and well-structured. 97/100
The Cistercian monasteries in the Lamego region were pioneers in producing wine in the Douro sufficient for export, utilizing the Douro River for transport. By the late 19th Century, Port producers began to invest in the Douro Valley, leading to the concept of Vintage Port terroir. In the 1930s, it became more customary to produce Vintage Ports from individual estates, a shift from the prior method of blending top wines from multiple estates. In the 1950s, regulations were established by the IVDP mandating that Vintage Port must be bottled after two years in cask. The 1963 vintage was a noteworthy year, marking a pivotal moment that helped revitalize the Port trade after a challenging period, with 1966 and 1970 also being recognized as exceptional vintages. The Symington family expanded their holdings in the Douro during the 1980s and 1990s, growing from 250 hectares in 1995 to over 1000 hectares today.
Our exploration includes three examples from the 2003 vintage, now featured as library releases. This year was notoriously warm, with 667 mm of rain during the winter followed by a prolonged summer heat, which peaked at 42°C in Pinhão during the early weeks of August. Fortunately, some rain at the end of August assisted in grape ripening after the excessive heat had caused the vines to shut down.
Warre’s Vintage Port 2003
The 2003 vintage of Warre’s embodies elegance and finesse, characteristic of grapes sourced from higher vineyards. This Port is sweet, rich, and softly textured, featuring supple flavors of cherry and blackberry. It leads to a palate with a hint of saltiness, combined with sweet herbal undertones and pleasant evolution over time. Lush and rich, with sugar effectively softening the tannins. It is in great drinking condition now. 93/100
Graham’s Vintage Port 2003
Known for crafting richer and more opulent Ports, Graham’s 2003 vintage showcases beautiful aromatics, featuring floral minty notes intertwined with elements of tar and spice alongside sweet black fruits. There’s a nice development on the palate revealing a mellow profile accentuated by minty and spicy nuances. This wine is bold, rich, and decidedly opulent. 94/100
Dow’s Vintage Port 2003
Dow’s wines are typically noted for their dryness and austere nature when young. However, the 2003 vintage presents a lovely weight and intensity complemented by pleasing fruit and a firm structure. It offers notes of herbs and pepper with a refreshing aspect alongside floral hints of black cherry. The wine is sweet and intense, displaying fine precision. 95/100
The year 1985 marked a classic vintage that produced powerful wines with remarkable ageing potential. ‘There are few wines in the world that offer this guarantee of longevity,’ reflects Charles Symington.
Warre’s Vintage Port 1985
This wine boasts an exquisite profile with sweet notes of cherry and strawberry, complemented by herbaceous hints and a suggestion of raisin-like sweetness. It presents a delightful concentration of sweet fruit combined with a touch of mellow savoriness. The overall feel is elegant and refined, with a seamless quality. Rated 95/100.
Graham’s Vintage Port 1985
For a nearly 40-year-old vintage, this wine exhibits a remarkably deep color. It reveals an impressive concentration of sweet blackberry and cherry characteristics, showcasing genuine finesse. The weight of the sweet fruit is beautifully matched with fine tannins, along with nuances of pepper, herbs, and liquorice. A harmonious blend of power and finesse! Rated 97/100.
Dow’s Vintage Port 1985
This wine retains a rich color. On the palate, it is fresh, offering well-defined flavors of meaty, peppery blackcurrant along with delightful salty, tarry, and spicy undertones. There is remarkable depth here, supported by warmth and structure, maintaining a balance that avoids excessive sweetness. Bold and rich. Rated 97/100.
1963 represents a vintage from a bygone era. At that time, winemaking was not centralized as it is today; rather, wines were produced on individual farms, with Port houses sending representatives to procure the selections they desired, subsequently transported back to Gaia. Navigating the Douro region posed its own challenges, as travel was limited to horseback or boat, and the river was not yet dammed, complicating waterway access.
Warre’s Vintage Port 1963
The wine is fine, seamless, and smooth with an elegant profile highlighting floral red cherries and spicy nuances. On the palate, it offers a lovely texture that is sweet and smooth, showcasing true focus and sophistication paired with extraordinary refinement. The elegance of this vintage still maintains a hint of structure. 97/100
Graham’s Vintage Port 1963
Featuring delightful aromas of red cherry and earl grey tea, this vintage presents a rich palate filled with liqueur-like cherry flavors, complemented by a subtle hint of raisin and remarkable elegance. The wine concludes with a peppery finish and a refreshing twist of mint. 98/100
Dow’s Vintage Port 1963
This vintage has a certain stern quality, presenting a savory twist alongside sweet plums and cherries, with a touch of liquorice in the mix. It is honeyed and rich with mint notes, fine red cherries, hints of tea leaf, and layers of undergrowth character. The finesse is palpable, culminating in a long, spicy finish. 96/100
Cockburn’s Vintage Port 1963
Characterized by its fresh, supple, and elegant nature, this vintage showcases refined red cherry and strawberry flavors, infused with aniseed and dried herbs, while also exhibiting a bit of structure. It remains very fine and elegant, with plenty of potential for the future. 98/100