Simon Field MW, Anthony Rose, and David Williams express their admiration for the variety presented during a tasting of some of the finest Cabernet Francs globally.
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Cabernet Franc has gained popularity among both growers and enthusiasts due to its ability to maintain freshness in a warming planet, showcasing its potential for significant stylistic diversity, according to David Williams.
The concept of ripeness has emerged as a contentious aspect of wine aesthetics in recent times, and no other grape variety encapsulates the challenges of defining this elusive idea quite like Cabernet Franc. This variety comes with a considerable amount of expectations and biases. The tasting guides, with their depictions of pencil shavings and green capsicum intertwined with the essence of summer berries and currants in soft hues of red and purple, have shaped our anticipations for Cabernet Sauvignon (along with Merlot and Carmenère). Furthermore, wine textbooks often emphasize the challenges associated with achieving full ripeness consistently across different vintages, as well as the dangers of overwhelming herbaceousness, gripping tannins, and piercing acidity during the frequent cooler years.
These portraits of Cabernet Franc largely draw inspiration from established notions regarding its success in the area where it has been cultivated longest for varietal wines—the Loire, particularly within the four appellations of Anjou and Touraine: Bourgueil, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil, Chinon, and Saumur-Champigny. Even in today’s context, illustrated by this tasting, Cabernet Franc has emerged as a prominent solo varietal in wines produced globally, yet the Loire remains the leading region for varietal Cabernet Franc production. The valley boasts approximately 16,000 hectares of vineyards, which make up just over one-third of the world’s total, putting it on equal footing with Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc is a lesser-known red variety, ranking as the third most planted but constituting less than 10% of the overall red vineyard area.
Nonetheless, even within the Loire, the perception of Cabernet Franc as predominantly green and persistently struggling to achieve “proper ripeness” in all but the finest vintages has faced challenges from growers and merchants alike. In the early 2000s, while the Loire was still viewed as the northernmost edge of feasible European red-wine production, I found myself gently corrected by British Loire specialist importer/courtier Charles Sydney at the local trade fair, the Salon des Vins de Loire in Angers, when I noted that Loire Cabernet Franc appeared particularly vulnerable to vintage variations. “Not if you know how to work with it,” he replied, highlighting the impressive consistency he believed characterized his portfolio of growers. I also recall Sydney minimizing my argument that climate change might positively influence the style and consistency of Loire Cab Franc. “The best growers are already there,” he informed me.
In the backdrop of a wine world zeitgeist that had transitioned, during the waning days of Parkerization, towards a definition of ripeness based on grapes pushed to the extremes of sugar accumulation and hang-time, Sydney’s views, along with those of his growers, were not widely accepted beyond the region. Their concept of “ripeness”—encompassing the ideal levels of green flavors, acidity, and acceptable sap and crunch in tannins—often clashed with the dominant perspective, leading to accusations of acute cellar palate among Loire growers in some circles. Fast forward 20 years, and the view has dramatically shifted, with the classic Loire style now recognized as the sommelier’s ideal of acid-driven red wines. During my most recent visit to Chinon in late 2021, the concern of underripeness was not mentioned once. Every grower I spoke with was instead intensely focused on how much longer they could maintain the fashionable sap, snap, and high-acid freshness of their Cabernet Franc in summer temperatures that consistently exceed 104°F (40°C).
The winemakers of the Loire are certainly not alone in voicing these kinds of concerns. In an effort to introduce some of that elusive vitality, lift, and freshness into increasingly warm vintages, many producers of Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style wines have increasingly turned to Cabernet Franc in recent times. As my fellow panelist in this tasting, Anthony Rose, points out, “Cabernet Franc is well suited to cooler, inland climates and ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. As climate change results in bolder reds from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cabernet Franc could become a savior if it is used more extensively in blends or on its own to meet the increasing demand for wines that have lower sugar levels at phenolic ripeness, and thus lower alcohol content, than its Bordeaux varietal counterparts.”
During this diverse tasting—which included wines from Argentina, Australia, California, Virginia, Chile, and South Africa, along with selections from the Loire and Bordeaux, all of which received high praise from at least one panelist—there was significant evidence of Cabernet Franc’s adaptability. The most notable remark made by the panel was about the “evident diaspora between the wines from the Loire […] and those from other regions, including other parts of France,” as highlighted by Simon Field MW.
Depending on how you interpret them, our scores indicated a fairly balanced preference for the wines from the Loire compared to the richer styles produced elsewhere; the Loire secured six of the top 11 positions but did not manage to break into the top four, where Bordeaux, Napa, and Tuscany excelled.
In my own reflections, I can sense a lingering bias towards the Loire style—or at least a deeply ingrained belief that it represents the most authentic expression of Cabernet Franc. This becomes apparent when I note that I’m “not thinking about the variety” in my comments for my highest-rated wine of the tasting (the splendid yet intricately detailed Guinaudeau [Château Lafleur] Les Perrières Bordeaux Supérieur) or when I remark that it’s “difficult to identify any distinctive Cab Franc flavor” in my second-favorite wine (the impeccably styled La Jota Vineyard Co Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc Napa Valley California USA 2019).
Upon reflection, with a notable touch of l’esprit de l’escalier, it seems something was amiss. What I truly detected was a lack of Loire Cab Franc character, rather than an absence of Cab Franc flavor tout court. Essentially, what I was savoring in these two exquisite wines was a representation of Cab Franc at varying stages of ripeness. My fellow tasters and I will undoubtedly continue to admire Simon’s description of the “cool, high-in-acidity, aromatic, guileless” Loire profile. However, this tasting revealed that Cabernet Franc can indeed produce magnificently fresh, articulate red wines across a vast spectrum of styles, environments, and ripeness levels, far beyond the persistent stereotype.
Guinaudeau (Château Lafleur) Les Perrières Bordeaux Supérieur Bordeaux France 2019 (15% ABV) | 96
SF | A ruby red hue, inviting and generous; the nose displays hints of cigar box, soft earth, and spice, with the fruit subtly present in the background; poised and incredibly appealing. On the palate, the fruit expands beautifully, displaying elegance, versatility, and composure, its concentration almost hidden beneath an airy floral allure. A truly accomplished, gratifying, and remarkable wine. | 95
AR | Rich and deep in youthful ruby, this one still exudes a brooding yet youthful aroma, waiting in the wings, but with a sweet, spicy layer and a vibrant energy that is compelling; this showcases wonderful fruit, dense and sumptuous in both taste and texture, yet somehow maintaining an effortless elegance; the clarity of the dark berry and cassis fruit shines brilliantly, the oak contributing a spicy layered texture and seductive charm, all supported by an outstanding freshness and vibrancy for excellent balance. A wine that restores your confidence in Bordeaux, regardless of its price. 2024–39. | 97
DW | Richly appealing, this wine showcases plush and intricate brocaded aromas, complemented by velvety, refined tannins. It embodies the vibrant energy and acidity of Cabernet Franc, presenting a captivating fragrance where red fruit intertwines with black. Rather than focusing on the grape variety or blend, this wine draws you into its remarkable depth and sensuous, hedonistic allure. Best enjoyed from 2024 to 2038. | 95
La Jota Vineyard Co Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc Napa Valley California USA 2019 (14.1% ABV) | 95
SF | The wine displays a rich, nearly opaque hue; a deep onyx. The nose reveals ripe bilberry, sloe, and cassis, with subtle hints of laurel and mint lurking in the background. It’s all very primary, supported by a ripe, confident texture; both acidity and tannins are pronounced and impressive. The balance and concentration are exceptional—modern and expressive yet finely crafted. A wine worthy of aging. | 94
AR | A profound, brooding, youthful red, this wine is deeply aromatic with rich, ripe tones and a plush hint of vanilla oak. On the palate, an abundance of mulberry fruit notes comes alive, juicy and supple, enhanced by a stylish hint of French oak spice. It intricately combines fruit, oak, texture, and freshness, resulting in a beautifully balanced and exceptionally stylish experience. Although currently too young to fully enjoy, with two to three years of cellaring, it promises to develop beautifully over the next decade or longer. Cellaring this wine is highly recommended, without a doubt. Best from 2024 to 2035. | 95
DW | The dusky oak aroma is layered with the richness of dark fruit, showcasing impressive intensity. It’s challenging to pick out any specific Cab Franc characteristics, but the fruit quality is exceptional. The tannins are refined and smooth, with a central note of crème de cassis delivering immense pleasure that carries through a remarkably prolonged finish. This is an incredibly high-caliber Napa red. 2024–32. | 95
Le Dôme St-Emilion Bordeaux France 2021 (13.5% ABV) | 94
SF | Exhibiting a deep onyx hue, this wine reveals high-toast aromas alongside a velvety, almost bituminous scent; it offers plush notes of bilberry. There is a sense of luxury before an element of restraint and terroir comes into play. The floral notes are somewhat overshadowed by the commanding tannins; it’s an exemplary display of fine winemaking that remains unaffected by the trials of a modest vintage. The result is both incredibly striking and somewhat elusive—an alluring mystery. | 92
AR | This wine shows a young, ruby color; the aroma is fresh, combining ripe dark-fruit notes with a subtle hint of oak in the background. It invites you in with its captivating fragrance. Upon tasting, it unfolds into a delightful experience with a tender sweetness of dark cassis fruit. Its richness and texture linger on the palate beautifully, enhanced by supple tannins, making for an enjoyable tactile experience before the unavoidable swallow—or, in this case, a regrettable spit. Still in its youth, this wine promises to last at least another decade. 2024–35. | 95
DW | The initial Bordeaux flight presents an immediate shift in style and character, influenced by the terroir, environment, and the inclusion of a different grape variety in the blend—specifically a 20% portion of Merlot. As a result, we find ourselves in a distinctly different, yet captivating realm, characterized by rich depth where the hallmark fragrance of Cabernet Franc resonates with hints of graphite and floral notes, underpinned by a fuller, more robust rhythm. This complexity is enhanced by elegantly crafted cedary oak and a gentle touch of silky tannins. 2024–38. | 94
Le Macchiole Paleo Tuscany Italy 2019 (14% ABV) | 94
SF | The wine displays a richly complete color, showcasing a blend of ruby, magenta, and vermillion tones. On the palate, it is equally impressive, with savory accents enriched by scents of petrichor, wild mint, and a touch of verbena. Layered beneath these notes are dark fruits, bittersweet chocolate, rosemary, and hints of smoked meat. The overall experience is succulent and gastronomic, illustrating a delightful symbiosis between the grape variety and its setting, creating an engaging and stimulating wine experience. | 94
AR | The wine exhibits a deep, youthful color, with just a hint of garnet appearing at the edge of the glass; the bouquet is evolving beautifully, infused with fruit, a light touch of vanilla oak, and an enticing sweetness, all seamlessly integrated. With its cassis nuances and polished French oak, it evokes a Bordeaux-like quality, yet notable Italian acidity and a slight bitter undertone of tannin introduce a distinct umami richness to this commendable wine. 2024–31. | 93
DW | An exquisitely harmonious yet intricate bouquet of berries and currants; it is lushly satisfying and flows seamlessly over the palate, accompanied by an abundance of fine tannins and a hint of sage complemented by a subtly briny, Mediterranean freshness. Exceptionally refined and effortlessly stylish, everything is perfectly in place. 2024–34. | 94
Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie (Monopole) Chinon Loire France 2019 (13.5% ABV; Organic) |93
SF | A radiant ruby red, exuding a bright and inviting hue; the aroma presents dark fruits mingling with spices, the influence of oak, and hints of bitumen and green tea lurking in the background. It forms a captivating, impressionistic array. These nuances resonate on the palate, where oak continues to lead but with undeniable poise, concentration, and intriguing complexity. It presents a food-friendly character (the acidity is notable), while also offering immediate charm and the foundations of a remarkable structure. | 92
AR | A striking, vivid ruby for a 5-year-old Cab Franc, showcasing a classic aromatic profile adorned with herbal notes above ripe cherry fruit and lightly touched with oak; the cherry fruit is vibrantly fresh and impressively youthful—exuding a dynamic energy; initially supple tannins (a bit drying on the finish) and stylistic finesse add a layer of texture to this well-balanced, elegantly crafted red. 2024–29. | 92
DW | This is a vin de plaisir that flaunts a beautifully enticing aroma: a delightful blend of crème de cassis and crème de mure, highlighted by hints of violet and graphite. It delivers pure enjoyment with a smooth, elegant balance of fine tannins dusted with chalk and vibrant acidity that flows effortlessly through the rich, refined fruit. Perfect for immediate enjoyment while also possessing the potential for aging. Optimal drinking years: 2024–34. | 94