Melody Wong: Addressing the Challenges Ahead in Industry Reform

By | 8 October 2024

As I grew older, my curiosity deepened, prompting me to enroll in my first wine course. Years later, my ambition shifted towards turning my wine appreciation into a profession. I mistakenly believed that sheer passion would suffice, only to discover that it wasn’t enough. My lack of experience as a sommelier resulted in numerous rejections and failed interviews. However, much like a cinematic tale, the doors to the industry eventually swung open for me. I was brimming with anticipation for future opportunities, yet I knew challenges were on the horizon.

The dream of uncorking and decanting exquisite wines from vintage collections was quickly engulfed by the intense demands and workload. I soon found myself overwhelmed by the extensive hours and physically taxing tasks involved. While I derived joy and fulfillment from recommending and serving exceptional wines, I also faced tedious responsibilities that included cleaning, lifting, and unboxing heavy wooden crates that could consume several hours of my day. The constant pressure and high expectations imposed a strain that began to affect my mental well-being.

Seeking support proved difficult as socializing with friends became a challenge due to my irregular working hours. The many times I missed out on festive occasions and significant celebrations became an expected part of the job. However, that isn’t to say I didn’t find enjoyment in working with wine. When everything aligns perfectly, it can be incredibly rewarding. Nonetheless, the devastation from mistakes can be disheartening.

After a couple of years, I finally began to feel more secure in my abilities as a sommelier. Nevertheless, advancing in this field continues to be demanding. There is always an underlying question of ‘what’s next?’. Even today, I sense that career advancements for women may be overlooked. During several job interviews, I faced inappropriate questions such as, ‘Are you planning to get married or have children?’ In previous roles, I encountered comments like, ‘female sommeliers tend to transition to office jobs as they age,’ or the bewildering assertion that ‘women do not want to work long hours.’ It’s not surprising to hear that many of my female colleagues have faced similar experiences, with reports of being told, ‘you need to be more assertive,’ or questioned, ‘are you truly capable of managing?’

Even so, I feel that those challenging times are behind us, and the situation has seen improvements. However, there are still obstacles to navigate. What are my personal challenges? It’s often the guest who doubts my qualifications as a sommelier, or my wine suggestions being dismissed simply because of my gender. The journey to reform the industry is still long. I won’t deny that these frustrating encounters have occasionally distracted and demoralized me regarding my career goals, but my passion for wine has always prevailed.

Fortunately, I now have the chance to create wine programs and express my enthusiasm for this craft. Additionally, I aim to contribute to making the industry more equitable for the next generation of sommeliers. I’ve witnessed many wine-loving peers hesitate to advance in this field due to concerns about their experience and the barriers they face in their career paths. Some hold the belief that sommeliers belong to an elusive ‘exclusive club’.

Is it time for us sommeliers to consider how we can make the industry more inviting? Should we strive to be more ‘approachable and welcoming’ so that guests feel at ease when conversing with us? This vision is shared by many who are striving toward the same objective. One day, when I reflect on my journey, I hope to proudly say that I played a role in making it a reality.

Let us honor the unique qualities of individuals in the same way we appreciate the variety offered by wine’s diverse grape varieties and terroirs. Diversity should not only be represented in our wine selections but also among the people in the industry who stand behind each bottle. Ultimately, we are all speaking a shared language of wine and fostering a mutual passion—wine unites us, and that is certainly worth celebrating.

It was a delightful experience to savor Marqués de Murrieta’s Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Blanco 1986 (£785-£800 in bond via Crop & Vine, Ideal Wine Co, VinQuinn). This wine was truly expressive – robust, yet delivered with finesse and elegance. It presented mature notes of beeswax, honey, and orange blossom, complemented by layers of creaminess, spices, and a touch of petrol on the finish. The wine exhibited a mineral quality, umami character, and wonderfully balanced oak. It was so impressive that I found it hard to believe it was a wine aged for 38 years.

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