The revival of South Africa’s Bordeaux blends marks a significant shift in the country’s winemaking narrative. Once a staple that introduced South African wines to the world, these blends faced a decline as winemakers explored various other styles. However, they have reclaimed their status, particularly from the renowned regions of Stellenbosch and Constantia.
Historically, Bordeaux blends—crafted from core varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot—were pivotal in establishing South Africa’s winemaking reputation. As Mike Ratcliffe of Vilafonté noted, these wines were at the forefront of the global stage for South African wines over 30 years ago.
While regions like Swartland gained the spotlight in the early 21st century, the quality of Bordeaux blends persisted, with recent tastings demonstrating their enhanced refinement. Factors driving this resurgence include healthier vineyards, better site selection, and a focus on quality craftsmanship in winemaking.
Winemakers have stepped away from merely imitating Bordeaux styles, embracing local characteristics that enhance the uniqueness of these wines. For instance, Luke O’Cuinneagain’s philosophy at Vergelegen reflects a move towards complex, site-specific expressions rather than adhering strictly to traditional Bordeaux profiles. Now, some winemakers are experimenting with blending in varieties like Syrah and Cinsault, which introduce new dimensions to the blends.
Vineyard health has fundamentally improved due to increased awareness of viticulture practices. The challenges from droughts in 2016-2018 prompted significant changes, such as addressing grapevine leafroll virus, which has plagued vineyards and affected grape quality. Estates like Vergelegen have instilled a strict zero-tolerance policy regarding virus-infected vines, emphasizing that healthier grape material leads to superior wines.
Additionally, many winemakers took the opportunity to replant using virus-free clones after the droughts, further enhancing quality. New approaches in the cellar have prioritized freshness and finesse over power, resulting in wines with crisper tannins and lower alcohol levels than seen in previous decades.
The resurgence of Cabernet Franc has been particularly noteworthy, especially in cooler climates like Southern Stellenbosch. Winemakers such as Bruwer Raats have pioneered the variety’s use, showcasing its ability to thrive in specific regions, adding further complexity to Bordeaux blends.
In Constantia, high rainfall and cooler coastal conditions have fostered unique wine profiles, with Cabernet Franc and Merlot standing out as key varietals. Megan van der Merwe of Beau Constantia emphasizes the importance of allowing the site’s character to express itself, leading to wines that are both clear and balanced.
The past decade has prompted a revaluation of Bordeaux blends, leading to a newfound focus on the potential of these wines. As they continue to evolve, Bordeaux blends are not just maintaining their popularity but are also elevating the perception of South African wines significantly in the global market.
In this context, though the spotlight may shift from time to time, the consistent quality and reliability of these blends ensure their presence in the hearts of wine enthusiasts and collectors alike.