Rippon, a stunning vineyard overlooking Lake Wānaka, is known as one of New Zealand’s most photographed estates, and with good reason. The name Wānaka translates to “a teaching place” in Māori, which aptly describes the educational experience offered by Nick Mills during my visit in September 2024.
Originally purchased in 1912 by Percy Sargood, the property, formerly known as Wānaka Station, began its winemaking journey in 1975 under the leadership of Rolfe Mills, Nick’s father. Rolfe planted a variety of vines after skeptics claimed nothing would thrive there. By 1982, he focused on vinifera varieties that showed promise. Over time, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc emerged as the standout varieties.
Rippon’s vineyards sit on schistous soils and benefit from a unique continental climate moderated by the nearby lake. Nick believes this environment is crucial for producing wines with precise tannins. The vineyards were planted on their own roots, with no irrigation, adding to their unique characteristics.
In 2008, Rippon began producing single-block wines, with two designated blocks: Tinker’s Field and Emma’s Block. The former is north-facing and benefits from afternoon sun, while the latter faces east-northeast, closer to the lake, making it slightly cooler and more delicate. Tasting these side by side reveals the differing structures and characteristics of each block.
The quality of Rippon wines has continued to improve over the years, with harvest dates spanning from mid-March to late April, showcasing an ability to retain acidity despite good ripening conditions. Nick highlights that their grapes do not require must adjustments due to their natural balance.
The journey of Rippon’s winemaking saw its first vintage in 1987, producing a Müller Thurgau before transitioning to Pinot Noir in 1989. With different winemakers through the years, stability returned when Nick resumed winemaking in 2003, bringing with him new ideas that shaped the vineyard’s future. He implemented biodynamic practices and began using whole clusters in the Pinot ferment, which remains a significant part of their process.
In 2012, to commemorate the centenary of the family’s ownership, Rippon held vertical tastings highlighting their wines from various vintages, a tradition revived during my visit in 2024. This tasting featured exceptional wines from 1991 onwards, demonstrating their ability to evolve over time.
The highlights of the tasting included a refined 2022 Sauvignon Blanc and several impressive Rieslings, showcasing the winery’s deft touch with this varietal. The pinnacle of the session, however, was the Pinot Noir vertical, arranged from oldest to youngest.
Older vintages exhibited remarkable longevity, showcasing delightful fruit and complexity. The interesting pattern of alternation in wine characteristics became apparent—odd-numbered vintages tended to have a more robust structure, while even-numbered years offered softer harmonies.
As the tasting progressed through the years, it became evident that Rippon Pinot Noir has carved its niche among New Zealand’s finest wines, the result of over 30 years of dedication and vision. The family, including Nick’s mother Lois and his wife Jo, contribute to a shared passion for producing wines that express the essence of their unique terroir.
Rippon’s wines are neither purely hedonistic nor overly robust; rather, they exhibit depth, fruitiness, and aging potential. They distinctly reflect the place of Rippon, rather than conforming to general New World or Southern Hemisphere characteristics.
When comparing Emma’s Block and Tinker’s Field, personal preference plays a significant role. Many tasters seemed to favor Emma’s for its attractive fruit, while Tinker’s was noted for its structure. Regardless, Rippon’s main bottling held its ground alongside its single-block counterparts, emphasizing the estate’s skill in blending flavors.
Rippon Pinot Noir stands as a testament to the dedication of the Mills family, showcasing how thoughtful vineyard management and winemaking practices can lead to exceptional wines that resonate with both palates and memories.