Elaine Chukan Brown’s newly published book, The Wines of California, offers an extensive and nuanced overview of the state’s wine industry, intertwining its political and social history. This 468-page work, part of the Classic Wine Library series by Académie du Vin Library, presents a detailed exploration of California’s wine landscape, reflecting on both its historical context and contemporary significance.
One notable revelation from the book is that during Prohibition, a company in California produced “sherry” for Campbell Soup, illustrating the often-overlooked connections between the wine industry and other sectors. Brown emphasizes the contributions and exploitation of Indigenous people in the establishment and growth of California’s wine culture, a topic that has been historically neglected.
Brown, who has an academic background and identifies as non-binary, approaches the subject with a fresh perspective, combining deep research with clarity. Their book is structured into three parts: the historical progression of wine in California, a detailed guide to its various regions (the second part), and a reflection on contemporary challenges such as climate change and economic shifts (the third part).
The first part, titled "How We Got Here," narrates the evolution of California wine from its origins through significant events that shaped its trajectory, including the impact of World War II on production practices. Brown highlights the essential role of Native Americans in the development of the industry, an acknowledgment that is long overdue.
The second part, "Where We Grow," serves as a comprehensive guide to California’s 154 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). It discusses geological and climatic factors that influence wine production while profiling various producers. Although this section is rich in detail, some readers might wish for a more extensive exploration of notable grape varieties and additional profiles of influential wineries.
Finally, in "What We’re Facing," Brown addresses pressing issues like the anti-alcohol movement and climate change. The author critiques the industry while advocating for innovation as a method for overcoming current challenges, echoing the historical resilience of California’s wine community.
The Wines of California emerges as an ambitious and thought-provoking exploration, capturing the essence of California’s wine heritage. It invites readers to reflect on the industry’s complexities while recognizing the ways people can overcome obstacles. This book is a significant contribution to wine literature and a must-read for anyone interested in understanding the multifaceted narrative of California wines.
For more information, you can visit California Wine.