Llívia: A Food-and-Wine Escape in Spain’s Highest Vineyards
Over the summer, Paul White and his wife, Jenny, sought refuge from the sweltering heat of the Corbières vineyards by venturing to the quaint mountain village of Llívia in the Pyrenees. Unlike many visitors who flock there for skiing or hiking, the couple aimed to indulge in the region’s culinary delights and fine wines.
Driving through picturesque routes from Carcassonne, they admired the transition from lush valleys to rugged peaks, eventually arriving in Llívia—the only Spanish town within French territory, a quirky leftover from border negotiations in 1659. This unique status allows the town to embody both Spanish and Catalan cultures, reflected in its vibrant food scene. The local cuisine features modern interpretations of traditional dishes, such as a reimagined paella, showcasing the region’s unique ingredients like high-altitude rabbit and wild mushrooms.
In terms of wines, Llívia offers an impressive selection from lesser-known up-and-coming vineyards, driven by the region’s cool climate—an ideal condition for grape growing. Paul was particularly enamored with the local varietals, like Garnacha and Tempranillo, praising their Pinot-like finesse.
One standout was Llivins winery, situated at Spain’s highest vineyard, producing wines from organically-grown grapes that thrive in the region’s dramatic climates. Established by Anna Baqués and Isaac Rigau in 2011, Llivins is making its mark with a focus on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, crafting wines noted for their purity and balance.
Dining experiences in Llívia were equally remarkable. At La Formatgeria, they savored exquisite lamb and pig dishes accompanied by artisanal farmhouse cheeses. Other culinary delights included a modern take on traditional dishes at Reval 13 and an impressive eight-course tasting menu at Trumfe, which boasted dishes like monkfish with kimchi and delicious desserts featuring marinated cherries and sheep’s milk ice cream.
Getting to Llívia is straightforward, with multiple transport options from nearby cities like Toulouse and Barcelona. The journey through shifting landscapes only adds to the allure of this hidden gem, making it a perfect destination for food and wine enthusiasts alike. Whether indulging in the emerging wine scene or feasting on creative Iberian cuisine, Llívia promises a refreshing escape into Spain’s gastronomic depths.