On a beautiful spring afternoon, surrounded by blooming peach trees, I traveled to the southeastern region of Piedmont, Italy, to explore Timorasso wine with the renowned producer, Elisa Semino, at her estate, La Colombera. Timorasso, a once nearly extinct grape variety, was saved in 1987 by Elisa and a few other dedicated producers, including Walter Massa. Back then, only 0.5 hectares remained as this vineyard had fallen out of favor due to its challenges compared to the more productive Cortese and Barbera varieties.
Timorasso is known for its unique growing characteristics; it is a slow-ripening grape prone to botrytis, making harvesting difficult especially in foggy conditions. Yet, recent warm summers have allowed these wines to find balance, with Timorasso achieving an ideal acidity level around 7 g/l at approximately 14% potential alcohol. The grape’s thick skin contains a component known as TDN (1,1,6-Trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene), which gives the wine its distinctive kerosene-like aromas, reminiscent of Riesling but more pronounced.
The wine boasts complex aromas of ripe peach and floral notes, complemented by a rich and substantial texture that can range from silky to oily, tempered by a refreshing acidity. With aging, a wide array of scents like marzipan, honey, fennel, and smoky flint can emerge, illustrating the wine’s intricacies as it matures.
Timorasso is linked to the Sant’Agata Fossil marls, which influence its mineral character. The clay content in the soil affects the wine’s final profile: higher clay leads to a silkier mouthfeel, whereas more calcareous soil imbues vigor and a rugged mineral edge.
In 2020, a new appellation, Derthona, was established, highlighting the unique terroir of Timorasso. La Colombera produces both blended and single-vineyard varieties, such as Montino, which displays honeyed and ginger notes while maintaining freshness. Other vintages exhibit different characteristics depending on the climate, with cooler years emphasizing herbal and savory profiles.
Among the 59 Timorasso producers, there are varied winemaking techniques, from extended skin contact to fermentation approaches that enhance or minimize acidity. The Derthona Consorzio introduced three categories for Timorasso wines—Piccolo, Derthona, and Derthona Riserva—to regulate quality and prevent market saturation, allowing producers to highlight their distinct styles.
The increase in global recognition of Derthona since 2008, growing from 40 hectares to 440 hectares in 2024, indicates a robust interest in these wines. The recent Derthona Due.Zero tasting showcased energetic 2023 wines, where several producers, including La Colombera, were noted for their quality. This renaissance of Timorasso reflects not only the grape’s resilience but also the dedication of its producers to elevate its status in the world of fine wines.