As part of the Porto Protocol Living Vineyards tour 2025, I had the opportunity to visit Staffelter Hof, an innovative winery in Kröv, Germany’s Mosel region. This winery, one of the world’s oldest, has embraced a new vision for organic viticulture with a focus on sustainability through the use of resistant grape varieties (PIWIs) and vitiforestry.
Staffelter Hof has a rich history, tracing its roots back to AD 862. The Klein family has been associated with the winery for 300 years, starting as caretakers of the monastery that originally owned it. Despite the familial legacy, Jan-Matthias Klein was initially unsure about pursuing winemaking. He traveled and gained experience in Australia, New Zealand, and France before deciding to take over the winery in 2014.
Klein began the transition to organic farming and fully converted to organic practices in 2011. The process involved consolidating various parcels of land, as the fragmented holdings in the Mosel posed challenges for organic farming.
At Staffelter Hof, Klein produces two lines of wines: a classical range from organically grown grapes and a natural wine range made without sulfites. The latter features whimsical labels and represents about half of his production. His natural wines include innovative grape varieties he discovered during travels, particularly two Portuguese varieties—Arinto and Fernão Pires—which he planted after being impressed by their quality.
The vineyard, known as Kröv Paradies, embodies an experimental approach to sustainable wine production by integrating disease-resistant varieties and trees. This project was facilitated by local land reform, allowing Klein to acquire six hectares of previously abandoned vineyards that faced east, an orientation increasingly seen as beneficial due to climate change.
Nicholas Haack, an agroforestry consultant, joined forces with Klein to enhance biodiversity within the vineyard. Their objectives include creating corridors with trees to aid wildlife such as bats and birds, which help control pests and contribute to the vineyard’s ecosystem.
The project aims to address the challenges posed by climate change, such as the introduction of new pests like the Drosophila suzukii fly. By focusing on increasing biodiversity through the use of PIWI varieties and integrating animal husbandry practices, the vineyard hopes to minimize the need for chemical treatments. This includes plans to use drone technology for targeted applications of organic sprays, reducing soil compaction and preserving soil health.
Klein’s focus on vitiforestry seeks to enhance the microclimate of the vineyard, using trees to provide shade and habitats for essential wildlife while also experimenting with fruit trees that can yield produce for ciders.
Klein’s journey with natural wine began in 2014, evolving to include the more recent focus on PIWIs after experiencing difficulties with climate impacts on traditional grape varieties. The inaugural small vintage from the newly planted Paradies was produced in 2022, with growing quantities expected in subsequent years.
The new wines from this vitiforestry initiative are branded "Grape Resistance." Klein anticipates that these innovative wines will inspire not only better farming practices but also a thriving culture of sustainability in viticulture.
For more information on the wines from Staffelter Hof, visit Grape Resistance’s website.