In the ongoing examination of grape varieties, David Schildknecht highlights the importance of reviving nearly lost cépages. His exploration connects past and future, noting how once-abandoned grape varieties may serve as essential resources for adapting to current climate challenges in viticulture.
Schildknecht references a recent article in Smithsonian Magazine discussing the rediscovery of Stenophylla, a coffee species thought to be extinct in the wild since 1954. The species, known for its high resistance to heat and drought, was found through historical botanical records, which revealed its superior flavor profile compared to conventional coffee varieties. This not only reopens possibilities for coffee cultivation but also exemplifies how historical plant varieties can be vital for future breeding and selection.
Similarly, Northern Rhône vigneron Eric Texier has dedicated efforts to rediscover ancient vine varieties to counteract climate change impacts. His work with Sérine—a variant of Syrah—has sparked new vineyards and wines in a region where this historic grape had been nearly forgotten. Recently, Texier has launched a project to propagate four obscure varieties from the Ardèche region, which have not produced wine in over a century.
Moreover, forgotten varieties like Arbanne and Petit Meslier, once overlooked in Champagne because of low yields and late ripening, are now valued for their potential to retain acidity and aromatic qualities required in an era where climate variability influences wine character. Modern producers, such as Etienne Calsac and Aurélien Laherte, are pioneering the cultivation of these cépages, realizing their significance that had previously been disregarded.
In Bordeaux, grapes like Castets, Carménère, and Malbec, although historically significant, have suffered from neglect. Their drought resistance has become especially relevant as climate conditions shift. As vineyards seek resilience in the face of these changes, reviving such varieties appears to be both a historical reclamation and a future necessity.
The narrative reveals a critical observation: exploration into historical grape varieties may provide crucial solutions for winemaking in the contemporary era, proving that the cépages of tomorrow can indeed lie in the vines of the past.