Varietal thinking can often be misleading in the chaotic world of wine. Despite familiar grape varieties acting as landmarks, when we taste wines, we often find that their identities can intertwine and confuse us. The Chenin Blanc International Celebration held in July in Angers and Tours, France, highlighted the complexities and versatility of the Chenin grape, which thrives in various regions with remarkably distinct expressions.
Data indicates that South Africa leads with over half of the world’s Chenin plantings, followed by France, which holds a third. Yet, the true essence of any grape variety emerges more vividly when grown in specific sites. Here, the interplay between the terroir and the winemaker’s craft comes into play, shaping the wine experience.
In conversations at the celebration, Patrick Baudouin emphasized Chenin’s versatility, while Rosa Kruger, a South African grower, dubbed it the "chameleon variety." It can reflect its environment precisely, making it a truthful expression of its origin. The Loire Valley displays Chenin’s potential most beautifully: from the deep, sumptuous character of Anjou to the bright, chiselled profile of Saumur, every area offers a unique tasting journey.
The journey of a Chenin wine doesn’t end at the vineyard; it continues to evolve in the cellar. Over time, it develops a richer hue and flavor, maintaining balance over decades. South African Chenins, while broader and chewier in character than Loire counterparts, are beginning to reflect the subtleties and nuances coveted by winemakers exploring their terroir.
Both regions are moving beyond strict varietal definitions, embracing the complexity and variety that each site brings. This development encourages a deeper appreciation for the "unvarietal varieties," which showcase the diverse tapestry of experiences that wine can deliver.
In the author’s personal tasting experience, one standout wine was Patrick Baudouin’s Clos des Bruandières 2020 from Anjou. Described as thunderous and intricate, it combines rich aromatic notes with a vibrant acidity, making it a wine to treasure now and in the future.
For those intrigued by the world of wine and looking for depth and complexity, Chenin Blanc offers a striking array of possibilities worthy of exploration.