Once considered lesser varieties due to their late ripening, slow sugar accumulation, and high acid retention, certain grape types now present a unique opportunity in the age of climate change. These traits are increasingly seen as advantageous as the wine industry grapples with rising temperatures, water scarcity, and shifting weather patterns. Varieties that withstand drought and heat could define the future of viticulture.
The notion of "future grapes" often conjures images of new grape hybrids or crossings. In recent years, hybrids known as Piwis, which are bred for fungus resistance, have gained traction in regions like Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. They have even started to make their way into the French wine scene, with new approvals in Champagne and Bordeaux. However, these varieties were not originally created with climate adaptation in mind. Their rise is primarily a response to EU regulations aimed at reducing fungicide usage, which may be necessary in the coming years.
Research into grape crossings that can stand up to climate change is ongoing, alongside exploration into genetic editing techniques to isolate beneficial traits. Despite the promise of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs), they remain controversial, and any new varieties will require extensive testing before they can be relied upon in mainstream viticulture. Additionally, current varieties have often overlooked climate resilience in prioritizing traditional characteristics, leading growers to sometimes replace well-adapted local vines with more popular but less suitable choices.
Historically significant grape varieties, like Zinfandel in California, exemplify this tendency. Once popular for their drought resistance and flavor, many ancient Zinfandel vineyards have been replaced by more fashionable grapes like Cabernet and Pinot Noir, often at the expense of local heritage.
The pursuit of novelty in grape selection has not always been misguided. Certain internationally recognized varieties have helped elevate the profile of indigenous grapes in various regions. For instance, the introduction of Chardonnay in Sicily by Planeta in the early ’90s brought international attention, paving the way for the appreciation of local varieties and growing the reputation of Sicilian wine.
Despite the promise of international varieties, many local grapes are still overlooked and underappreciated. Varieties such as Aligoté, Welschriesling, Carignan, and Cinsault, once common, have fallen out of favor but hold potential in a changing climate. Rediscovering and revitalizing these once-popular grapes may be essential for the future of wines that are both unique and resilient.
The next part of this exploration will delve deeper into these overlooked varieties and the potential they hold for our increasingly unpredictable climate.