Behind the scenes at Krug
Anne Krebiehl MW takes us on an immersive journey into the intricate winemaking process at Krug, specifically focusing on the winery’s celebrated single-vineyard Chardonnay, Clos du Mesnil. Each spring, a select group of international guests is invited to Krug’s estate to engage with chef de cave Julie Cavil and the winemaking team, gaining firsthand insight into the delicate crafting of their renowned blends.
Krug applies meticulous attention to detail in its vinification process, utilizing individual plots from their Clos du Mesnil vineyard—an area of just 1.84 hectares (approximately 4.55 acres). Grapes are harvested and vinified separately based on their specific traits, with Cavil’s team conducting blind tastings to ensure that only the finest wines make it into the final blends. This process showcases the vineyard’s complexity and Cavil’s commitment to achieving the utmost quality.
During a recent visit, the conditions were perfect for vineyard exploration and tastings. The team personally evaluates the grapes by taste rather than data. The search for Chardonnay with a sharp citrus aroma—specifically, a fresh, laser-like profile—guides their harvest decisions. With diverse microclimates within the Clos du Mesnil, grapes ripen at different rates, leading to a fascinating variety in wine profiles.
Cavil emphasized the importance of local pickers, who can be summoned on short notice to harvest at just the right moment. This flexibility is crucial for optimizing grape maturity. Over the course of a tasting of wines produced in 2024, remarkable differences in flavor and character were noted among the various base wines, each showcasing unique attributes sourced from different parcels.
The criteria for blending wines from Clos du Mesnil focus on precision, purity, and elegance. These characteristics are essential to the house style, with the final products going through rigorous tasting sessions to ensure that only the best expressions are ultimately bottled. Some wines, even after aging, can be deemed unfit for release and are instead added to the reserve library.
The process becomes even more complex during the blending of the Grande Cuvée and Grande Cuvée Rosé, which incorporate a multitude of reserve wines. Every year, the tasting committee engages in extensive evaluations to create blends that reflect the vintage’s character while upholding the artistry that defines Krug.
As the 2024 vintage unfolds, Krug’s dedication to quality remains evident despite challenges like mildew and varying grape ripeness. The results of this year’s severities yielded smooth and balanced wines, with Chardonnays reportedly thriving in adversity. The interplay between the reserve library and current vintages enables Krug to craft exceptional Champagne that showcases the rich diversity of its vineyard heritage.
Finally, Anne Krebiehl MW had the opportunity to taste some of Krug’s newly released wines, including the 173rd and 29th Editions, both of which exemplify the house’s commitment to quality and the art of blending. Each wine tells a story of its origin, skill, and the passage of time, reinforcing the notion that great Champagne is not merely created but assembled artfully—drawing from the past to create a delicious future.
For more information about Krug: Krug Champagne