It’s the end of February each year when the mimosa tree bursts into bloom, with its bright yellow pincushions adorning the branches. As we stroll on cool mornings, a blend of sweet almond, honey, and toasted scents envelops us—a sensory paradise that begs for a corresponding white wine.
Enter the Clairette grape variety, which captures these fragrant notes beautifully. In March, during a blind tasting of a new range from the Gigondas Blanc appellation—predominantly featuring Clairette—one can appreciate the multifaceted aromas often connected with this lush grape. The Gigondas Blanc must contain at least 70% Clairette, complementing varieties like Grenache Blanc, Clairette Rose, and Marsanne, among others. Each grape contributes unique elements to the bouquet, reminding drinkers of the natural beauty surrounding the vineyards.
The wines exhibit a soft composure with a fresh palate that delivers gentle acidity rather than sharpness. Depending on vineyard locations—ranging from 120m to 550m in altitude—the experiences can differ dramatically; the lower vineyards yield lush, generous wines, while those at higher altitude are often crisp and vibrant.
In Southern France, despite the existence of Clairette du Languedoc and Clairette de Bellegarde, which are lesser-known appellations, the Clairette de Die offers a sparkling alternative with a musky flair. White Châteauneuf-du-Pape resembles Clairette’s versatility as it can be standalone or blended, yet Louis Barruol of Château de Saint Cosme notes that Clairette’s expression on the Dentelles de Montmirail slopes is distinct, showcasing a ‘monstrously different’ profile.
The battle for recognition was not easy; the INAO initially rejected the idea of expanding the Gigondas appellation due to a perceived lack of white grape plantings. Yet winemakers like Barruol and Amadieu diligently demonstrated the potential through structured tastings over several years. Today, however, the demand is surging as excitement builds around Clairette’s potential in the region.
Historically, Clairette was once a prominent varietal prized for its oxidative qualities but languished in obscurity. Now, it rises anew alongside Piquepoul and potentially Terret Blanc, affirming a renaissance for these classic grapes. As Clairette finds its voice in contemporary winemaking, it indeed serves as the brother to Grenache, perfectly showcasing the terroirs of Southern France.