Lalou Bize-Leroy, known as Burgundy’s grande dame, has had a significant impact on the wine world. Beginning her journey from a lineage deeply rooted in viticulture, her father, Henri Leroy, was a key figure in the family wine business, Maison Leroy, contributing to its growth in the 20th century. Lalou’s own interest in wine sparked at a young age, influenced by her family environment, particularly through her father’s connections to the esteemed Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
In 1955, at just 23 years old, Lalou took charge of Maison Leroy. Her approach was to purchase the highest quality wines from the Côte d’Or, which at the time, many producers had yet to embrace estate bottling. As the industry began shifting, she faced challenges in sourcing quality wines due to the rise of chemical farming. This led her to acquire Domaine Charles Noëllat in 1988, which would later serve as the foundation for Domaine Leroy.
Domaine Leroy was born out of a desire to cultivate quality wines without the influence of agrochemicals. Lalou’s commitment to biodynamic practices set her apart, despite initial skepticism from industry peers. She was one of Burgundy’s earliest adopters, following a transformative encounter with Nicolas Joly, who inspired her to abandon chemicals entirely.
Her vineyards underwent a complete biodynamic conversion, aligning with Lalou’s philosophy of nurturing the land. However, the journey was fraught with difficulties, including a devastating mildew outbreak that led to significant crop loss. Despite the setbacks, Lalou’s dedication to biodynamics remained firm, reflected in practices such as using tisanes, decoctions, and adhering to lunar cycles for harvest.
The techniques employed at Domaine Leroy, such as tressage (a braiding method for vine canopies), have garnered attention from other producers who recognize the blend of innovation and tradition in Lalou’s practices. Her meticulous approach to grape harvesting—especially with Pinot Noir—has set new standards in quality, emphasizing delicate handling and rigorous sorting processes.
The wines produced by Lalou Bize-Leroy are celebrated for their exceptional quality. The whites are known for their structure and intensity, while the reds offer a complex sensory experience, reflecting her careful cultivation methods. Lalou’s approach raises fundamental questions about the limits imposed by terroir and challenges the conventional understanding of Burgundy’s hierarchical appellation system.
As she approaches her 90th year, Lalou continues to push boundaries in the wine industry, demonstrating that an unwavering commitment to quality and innovation can transcend traditional practices. Her legacy is characterized not just by the wines produced under her name, but by the new paths paved for producers in Burgundy and beyond.