In a recent exploration of New Zealand Pinot Gris, four distinctive bottles were highlighted: Rockburn, Isabel, Ata Rangi, and Greywacke. Despite some skepticism from wine professionals regarding the charm of Pinot Gris, consumers continue to embrace it. The challenge often lies in the fact that much of what is available tends to be low-quality, mass-produced wines lacking character. However, the wines examined in this mini-study show a more ambitious side of this grape variety.
Interestingly, Pinot Gris shares its origins with Pinot Noir, differing only through a mutation affecting the skin’s anthocyanin production. The taste profile shows significant variation among different producers.
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Rockburn Pinot Gris 2023, Central Otago: With a 13% alcohol content, this wine displays bright, focused acidity alongside exotic notes of nectarine and pear, with hints of cherry and lime. Its taut structure and refreshing lemony finish earned it a score of 91/100.
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Isabel Estate Pinot Gris 2021, Marlborough: At 13% alcohol, Isabel’s offering presents depth and richness without being overly heavy. Notable flavors include stony lemon and pear with a subtle peach undertone. It finishes fresh and linear, showcasing its character well. This wine garnered a score of 92/100.
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Greywacke Pinot Gris 2023, Marlborough: With a slightly higher alcohol content of 14%, Greywacke’s version stands out for its rich texture and spiced notes. It features bold melon and pear flavors complemented by cherry and citrus, with a hint of bacon fat richness. This lovely Pinot Gris finished with pithy bitterness, scoring 93/100.
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Ata Rangi Pinot Gris 2024, Martinborough: The youngest of the group at 14% alcohol, this wine is vibrant with lemon and grapefruit brightness, enriched by mandarin and table grape notes. Its lively acidity adds structure, making it a versatile option for pairing with food or enjoying on its own. This promising wine also scored 93/100.
Overall, these four wines illustrate the potential of New Zealand Pinot Gris beyond consumer stereotypes, offering depth, character, and quality that challenge its image in the wine market.