Straight from Macau, where I recently spent five days judging at the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards 2025, I had the opportunity to watch the documentary Waking the Sleeping Grape. This film explores the remarkable rise of the Chinese wine industry, featuring interviews with prominent figures both from within China and internationally. Directed by Shanghai resident filmmaker Sebastian Basco and released in 2023, the documentary encapsulates the rapid changes in this sector.
The film starts in Yunnan, specifically in the Shangri-La region, which is developing a boutique wine culture. It moves to Ningxia, the largest wine region known for its dry and continental climate, followed by Shandong on the coast, where a kinder climate fosters grape growth. Finally, it covers Xinjiang, another major region, famous for its extreme continental climate.
However, the Chinese wine industry faces challenges, particularly due to the harsh winters that necessitate hilling over the vines. This practice can complicate the cultivation process, leading to difficulties in achieving consistent ripeness among the grapes during the short, warm growing seasons.
One of the notable issues addressed is the overwhelming influence of Bordeaux on Chinese winemaking, where Cabernet Sauvignon has become the dominant grape. The film highlights how the Chinese are starting to carve out their own identity in wine production, moving away from reliance on foreign consultants and critics—a message reflecting the growth in their confidence.
The recent judging experience revealed a mixed bag of wines: while many displayed problems like uneven flavor ripeness often masked with sweetness and high alcohol levels, there were also some impressive reds and whites. With advancements anticipated over the next decade, it’s expected that there will be fewer Cabernet Sauvignons, a decline in Merlots, and the introduction of more varietals suited to the climates. The focus will likely shift towards improving viticulture and ensuring consistent ripeness, especially in regions constrained by environmental factors.
At present, the documentary Waking the Sleeping Grape is available exclusively on Cathay Pacific flights, but hopefully, it will reach a wider audience soon.
For more information, you can explore Wineanorak.