Julien Boulard, a Master of Wine based in China, recently held a seminar dedicated to Marselan, a grape variety he has researched extensively during his 15 years of conducting masterclasses in Chinese. Having lived in China for over two decades and visited more than 100 wineries, Boulard emphasized the significance of Marselan as a key grape variety for the region.
According to Boulard, in China, three grape varieties stand out—Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Gernischt, and Marselan. Among them, Marselan holds a unique appeal, particularly for its adaptability and potential. The grape was developed in 1961 through a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache by scientist Paul Truel at INRA’s domaine Vassal in France. Named after the village of Marseillan, Marselan was introduced to China in 2001, where its first fruit was harvested in 2003.
Currently, France has over 5,000 hectares devoted to Marselan, yet it remains minimally featured on wine labels. Meanwhile, China has seen its Marselan plantings grow from 400-700 hectares in 2019 to an estimated 1,000-1,200 hectares today. While Marselan faces challenges in France, such as being uprooted in the south, it has found a secure place in Bordeaux.
From a viticultural perspective, Marselan thrives in different climates across China. Regions like Shandong require around 182 days from budburst to harvest, while Xinjiang needs only 146 days. Boulard noted that Marselan exhibits advantages in phenolic ripeness and disease resistance due to its thick skins and loose bunches, qualities particularly beneficial in damp coastal areas and dry inland regions of China.
Most of China’s Marselan is grown on its own roots, which helps it maintain higher acidity and lower pH than Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a high-yielding variety that often requires green harvesting, though it can create marketable wines without sacrificing quality.
In the winery, challenges include managing immature seeds, which can produce astringent tannins, and addressing the grape’s tendency to reduce. To enhance structure and aroma, some producers might add tannins, use oak chips, or blend with other varietals to avoid overwhelming oak influence.
During the seminar, six Marselan wines were tasted, showcasing the diversity and potential of the grape:
- Longting ‘Lan’ Marselan 2021, Shandong: Bright and fresh with sweet berry fruits, elegantly balanced; Score: 94/100.
- Grace Vineyard Tasya’s Reserve Marselan 2021, Xinjiang: Chunky and dense, noted for blackberry and cherry fruit with firm tannins; Score: 89/100.
- Myst Vineyard Rock Mountain Marselan 2023, Ningxia: Inexpensive, with smoky oak and ripe fruit, though the oak may distract; Score: 89/100.
- Château Hua Hao Marselan 2017, Ningxia: Juicy berry fruits with a pleasant balance of sweet and sour; Score: 90/100.
- Excelcis Ji Hai Marselan 2017, Huailai: Nice tannins, fleshy black cherry fruit, and savory hints; Score: 93/100.
- Domaine Franco Chinois Reserve Marselan 2012, Huailai: Well-developed, smooth, and drinking nicely; Score: 93/100.
This seminar was part of the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards 2025.