We arrived at the Cognac train station and boarded a boat along the River Charente, where we were greeted by the sight of stone buildings, some darkened by a unique fungus, Torula compniacensis. Our small group of wine writers from the UK and Scandinavia was on a journey to discover the artistry behind Cognac, located 60 miles northeast of Bordeaux. As we navigated the picturesque river, we were surrounded by stunning hôtels particuliers, remnants of the region’s historical wealth. King Henry IV once described this scenic waterway as “the most beautiful stream in all my kingdom,” influenced by the unique weather conditions that aid in the slow maturation of grapes.
Cognac’s history of prosperity can be traced back to Roman times, peaking in the 10th century with the salt trade, and later enjoying a special relationship with French royalty. After the phylloxera crisis of the 1870s, the region’s vineyards were replanted, leading to a resurgence in quality, with the Ugni Blanc grape dominating production today. The winemaking process involves allowing the wine, which is initially vinified to 10% ABV without sulfur dioxide, to undergo double distillation in copper stills.
Once distilled, the spirit, which starts at 70% ABV, is aged in oak barrels for extensive maturation. This aging process transforms it into the final Cognac product, which is typically composed of numerous blends from various vineyards. Over time, geographic and geological studies have unraveled the region’s unique soils—comprised of limestone, chalk, and clay—each imparting distinct characteristics to the resulting Cognacs.
Our exploration included a visit to Hennessy’s Château de Bagnolet, where we enjoyed Cognac cocktails and an exquisite meal that concluded with a tasting of Paradis, a blend hailed for its ability to “cleanse the palate.” The craft of Cognac blending remains shrouded in mystery, with the secrets of each recipe carefully passed down through generations by le maître de chai, ensuring that nuanced techniques and flavors are preserved.
Christophe Valtaud, Martell’s ninth cellar master, shared insights about the oral tradition of blending, emphasizing the importance of tasting and experiencing the spirit rather than relying on written records. His passionate approach underscored the meticulous blending process that requires an understanding of varying annual conditions and the need to anticipate future production methods influenced by climate changes.
Moving through Martell’s expansive cellars, we were enveloped in a sense of history and intrigue. During a blending session, we were invited to participate in crafting our own Cognac, guided by precise instructions and mindful of the delicate variations in each sample we tasted.
Our journey led us through the company’s archives, which house over 10 million items ranging from historical correspondence to documents detailing the evolution of Cognac through the ages. These records serve as a testament to the intertwining of heritage and craftsmanship in the Cognac-making process, reflecting consumer preferences, legal histories, and trade.
We concluded our visit celebrating Cognac’s cultural significance at the Musée de Savoir-Faire. With UNESCO applications underway to recognize the region’s craftsmanship, Cognac embodies a rich legacy of tradition, artistry, and innovation, echoing the timeless adage that true mastery extends far beyond mere production; it encapsulates a heritage steeped in centuries of knowledge, learned through generations.