Chapoutier is a prominent producer in the northern Rhône region, boasting 60 hectares in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, making them a significant vineyard owner in the area. They are committed to enhancing Crozes by investing in northern vineyards with appealing terroirs, despite the challenges posed by steep slopes.
During a visit with Maxime Chapoutier, we explored Varogne, a unique vineyard situated just beyond the Hermitage hill, characterized by its stunning granite soils and individually staked vines. We also visited new plantings above the village of Gervans in the north.
Chapoutier’s Rhône vineyards have been farmed biodynamically for three decades. They’ve recently introduced bio-indicative plants to better understand the vineyard ecosystems, collaborating with a botanist who visits biannually. Their biodynamic vineyards currently feature up to 75 different plant species, a significant increase from just 10 in a recently acquired vineyard. Maxime emphasizes the importance of cultivating plant diversity.
Additionally, they are minimizing soil disturbance to preserve soil microlife. Maxime notes that excessive soil work dries out beneficial microorganisms. To combat this, they’ve begun integrating livestock into their farming practices. They currently use sheep, and have recently experimented with Kuni Kuni pigs, which are particularly advantageous as they only eat roots rather than grazing on grass. This unique feeding behavior helps the grass to stay well-watered and healthy.
The pigs are part of a rotational system where they are utilized in Hermitage, St Joseph, and premium Crozes-Hermitage sites. They are confined by temporary fencing and are taken back to their shelter each evening. This method not only improves the vineyard’s health but also creates a lively atmosphere among the crew, as Maxime describes the pigs as affectionate companions.
In terms of winemaking, Chapoutier has adopted oxidation for all their white wines. They have developed different techniques for their negociant wines, focusing on a lower level of solids, while their domain wines embrace a much higher solid concentration. The use of demi-muids allows for optimal interaction between lees and juice for the white wines.
For reds, the vinification process has shifted from prolonged maceration and high-temperature ferments to shorter maceration times and slightly lower fermentation peaks. They now include whole bunches in their fermentations, with percentages varying based on the soil type.
Chapoutier produces a number of exceptional wines, such as:
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Yannick Alléno & Michel Chapoutier Guer-Van Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2023: A collaboration with chef Yannick Alléno, this 100% Marsanne wine is finely structured and expressive, boasting pear and peach flavors with a complex finish. (95/100)
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M Chapoutier Sicamor Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2023: Aiming for a style resembling Hermitage, this new release features notes of toast, nougat, and bright citrus, concluding with lively mandarin hints. (95/100)
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M Chapoutier Sicamor Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022: This wine showcases radiant fruit flavors and a polished texture, with floral and peppery nuances, presenting a stylish intensity. (95/100)
The diversity of Chapoutier’s offerings reflects their meticulous approach to viticulture and winemaking, aimed at elevating the quality and reputation of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation.
Explore more about Chapoutier and their exceptional range of wines: Chapoutier.